Red's Ruin  5.2

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280 feet Consensus:  5.2 [details] FA:  1950's Submitted By:  Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Red's Ruin 5.2 Pitch 1 - looking up first 40 or so...

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Good first pitch for teaching new people to climb. The second and third pitchs were actually pretty fun. If you are in the area like I was, give it a go.

Pitch 1 5.0 PG Climb alcove, passing large tree on the right, continue up to the top, sharing belay ledge with Middle Earth's tree (100 ft).

Pitch 2 5.1 PG Diagonal up on ledges, then up (hollow) face to GT Ledge, again belay at a pine tree (80 ft).

Pitch 3 5.2 PG. Per the Dick Williams guide, "Climb corner for 30ft, passing oak tree to ledge. Traverse left for 10 ft, moving up and left to narrow ledge. From left side of ledge, diagnol up left (40 ft of 4th class runout on 4th class slab) to grassy ledge below short right facing corner". (100 ft) I'm not sure if this is what I did. I think it was but I don't believe the route gets climbed that much so I found a lot of lichen.

Location 

Look for the next major crack system about 50' right of Middle Earth. To descend, rap down Middle Earth.

Protection 

Standard gunks rack. Aliens helpful as always.

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View from top of pitch 3