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Redrock and vicinity

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andromeda T,TR 
Black Streak TR 
Broken Ankle S,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Excuse Me T,TR 
Frosty The Boulder 
Happy Feet S 
High Me T,TR 
Hobo's Chimney, The 
Hole in One TR 
Laughing Gull S,TR 
Midnight Train TR 
Morning Glory S 
No Bolt TR 
No Steps TR 
Plank, The T,TR 
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 
Roll the Bones S 
Scotty Bones TR 
Seappage T,TR 
Slab n' Jab T,TR 
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 
Steps T 
Steps Direct TR 
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 
Swayback T,TR 
Toe Jams T,TR 
Velcro T,TR 
Why Me? TR 
Wings of Steal T 
Wink Van Ripple TR 
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 
Y - Boulder 
Zipper T,TR 
Zits S 
Unsorted Routes:

Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Redrock and vicinity 


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Location: 42.6168, -70.7276 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,976
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Right end of Master's Wall.

Description 

This smaller area is probably my favorite in the greater Boston area. One challenge is determining who actually owns the land. Nonetheless, it hosts a couple handfuls of longer (for the Boston area) climbs with some lead potential on beautiful, red granite.

This area has more than just the Main Wall for climbing. Further, with subsequent additions to the website, it is evident that some conceptualize that this area could belong under Cape Ann. However, placing it under that subarea could lead to it being inobvious and submission of duplications. We are in the process of reorganizing this section due to confusion on how these crags are organized on this website. As you can see in the aerial photo, there are multiple crags in the vicinity. Note, all the organization can be updated as time goes on. Thanks for your patience.

Per Chris McNeil: Stone Hedge Boulder is a very interesting boulder-like section of the “Main Crag” area. It starts about 15 feet up the large rock debris at the south end of the main face and offers some great 5.10 to 5.11 climbs. Bring extra slings, there were no TR anchors as of the Fall of 2011.

Master's Wall is small crag that may be a perfect option while waiting for you turn on the rope at main crag. It is host to some great bouldery problems. There were no TR anchors as of the Fall of 2011.

Many climbs in this area can be lead. For top-roping, you will need long slings for your anchors.

L->R:

Frosty The Boulder, V1.

Y - Boulder, V1+.

Scotty Bones, 10, 1p, 30', TR.

Stonehenge Boulder - at the South end of the Main Crag.

A. Orange Peel, V3 or 11-, 20'.
B. Little Beaver, 10, 20'.
C. Common Sense, 11+, 20'.
D. East Feet, 10, 20'.

Main Crag

South End
E. Roll the Bones, 7, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Wings of Steal, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear & bolt.
G. Seappage, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 30', TR or gear.
H. Stonehenge Slab, 8, 1p, 30', TR.
I. Chimney, 6, 1p, 45', TR or gear.
J. Excuse Me, 6, 1p, 40', TR or gear.
K. High Me, 7 R?, 1p, 65', TR or gear.
L. Steps, 5-8, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
M. Swayback, 9+-11, 1p, 10', TR.

Center Crag

N1. Zits, 7-9+, 1p, 50', TR or bolts.
N2. Morning Glory, 8+-10+, 1p, 50', gear.

Blank section

O. Steps Direct, 12, 1p, TR, 10' var / 50'.
P. No Steps, 12, 1p, 50', TR.
Q or S1. Black Streak, 11+, 1p, 45', TR.
R or Q2. Andromeda, 11, 1p, 40', TR or gear.
S3. Zipper, 5, 1p, 40', gear or TR, nice shot or middle row, 3rd shot
S4. Zipper Variation, 8+ - 9 PG-13, 1p, 45', TR or gear.
T. Velcro, 11+, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
U1. Laughing Gull, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear or TR.
U2. Broken Ankle, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
V1. Midnight Train, 11, 1p, 60', TR? bolts?
V2. Ray's Picture, 10+, 1p, 40', gear & bolts.
W. Toe Jams, 5, 1p, 35', gear or TR.
X. Happy Feet, 8+, 1p, 35', bolts.
Y. The Wizard's Hat, 4, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

North End

Z. No Bolt, 7 or 11, 1p, 20', TR.
AA. Rip Van Winkle, 10- - 10+ PG-13, 1p, 35', gear or TR.
BB. Slip Van Winkle, 10+, 1p, 35', bolts.
CC. Slab n' Jab, 3, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

Not too far away are Down Under, Master's Wall, Lost Boulder, Mt Ann, Oz, Pink Floyd Wall, & Plateau Boulder.


Getting There 

This area lies north of Boston and is further than an easy bike ride. A car is useful. Go to Gloucester from Boston on US Hwy 1 to Hwy 128, go East on Hwy 128, go briefly Northwest on Hwy 133. Turn left, there are two parking areas. The main parking area is on the north side of the overpass on 133, just before the storage units. The second which is usually the overflow parking lot is the field to the left of the exit. A total of about 30-40 cars could be parked between these two lots, so there is plenty of parking. No parking laws are enforced. Thanks, Chris, for the update!

Per Chris McNeil: to get to Pink Floyd Wall, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see it right in front of you. It is approximately 1/4 mile.

Per Chris McNeil: to get to the Stonehenge Boulder, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see Pink Floyd Wall, then continue past it following the trail northwest. It is approximately 1/3 mile from parking lot.

Per Chris McNeil: for the Main Crag, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 past Pinbk Floyd Wall (turning northwest) and past Stone Hedge. It is approximately 1/3 mile.

Per Chris McNeil: for the Master's Wall, from main crag turn east away from the rock, walk up to the top of the ridge and you are on top of it.

Per mnatti: to get to Oz, go right just after the storage area and follow the pipeline road up hill until you can see the cliffs on the left (perhaps 5 minutes at the most).


Weather 

Weather.


Map 

Per Kai Troester: a Google map.


Other Nearby Crags 

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.
Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.


Climbing Season


36 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',7],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redrock and vicinity:
The Wizard's Hat   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Zipper   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Toe Jams   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
High Me   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Excuse Me   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Roll the Bones   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Steps   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Zits   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Plank   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Morning Glory   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Rip Van Winkle   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   
Laughing Gull   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Redrock and vicinity

Featured Route For Redrock and vicinity
The Hobo's Chimney (V1+).

The Hobo's Chimney V1+ 5  MA : Redrock and vicinity
This is one of the best overhanging problems of Redrocks. Follow the corner crack up to the top using rock features to balance out with your feet. The crux is mid way up the corner. The crack tapers out and there's a big step/reach up for a good hold....[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Photos of Redrock and vicinity Slideshow Add Photo
A nice view of the Entrance Boulder. Unknown mantle problem.
A nice view of the Entrance Boulder. Unknown mantl...
Old school Topo of the Northend of Redrock for the original edition of Boston Rocks.
BETA PHOTO: Old school Topo of the Northend of Redrock for the...
Andy working "Ray's Picture".
Andy working "Ray's Picture".
Looking west towards main wall from atop Master's Wall.
Looking west towards main wall from atop Master's ...
Red Rock's Main Face.  The "Zipper" ascends the obvious, left-facing flake in the center.
BETA PHOTO: Red Rock's Main Face. The "Zipper" ascends the ob...
Redrock amd vicinity.
BETA PHOTO: Redrock amd vicinity.
Unknown wall near Redrock main face.
BETA PHOTO: Unknown wall near Redrock main face.
Stone Hedge.
Stone Hedge.
Another (known) unknown wall.
BETA PHOTO: Another (known) unknown wall.
Old school topo of the main face of Redrock from original (1st edition?) Boston Rocks.
BETA PHOTO: Old school topo of the main face of Redrock from o...
Left end of Master's Wall.
Left end of Master's Wall.
What if I told you one of the biggest destinations in eastern Mass. was actually surrounded with many more beautiful lines and boulders on classic Cape Ann red granite? What if I told you there wasn't just slab lines in the Redrocks area but overhangs, finger cracks, face problems, and even a few offwidths? Well, even if you don't believe me, it's all there and just waiting to be climbed; largely forgotten by even local climbers. What if I told you this is just the tip of the iceberg that is the climbing on Cape Ann?
What if I told you one of the biggest destinations...
Comments on Redrock and vicinity Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2013
By mnatti
Apr 25, 2011

Oz is a fantastic alternative if the main wall is busy or if you just want a change of scenery. It offers great slab climbing and a few moderate trad lines. It has recently been completely reclaimed from the wilderness and needs more traffic to keep it that way.

To get to Oz, go right just after the storage area and follow the pipeline road up hill until you can see the cliffs on the left (perhaps 5 minutes at the most). Enjoy!

By jim.dangle
Dec 12, 2011

I'd also be mightily obliged if someone could put in an accurate topo showing the harder climbs (i.e. all the mysterious 10s and 11s) on the main face. Where does Andromeda start exactly ? Is Ray's Picture really 10-? The traverse up into the crescent feature seems 10ish, but the climbing up above that is REALLY hard slab-- even by New England standards. The Boston Rocks descriptions are pretty difficult to follow.

Has anybody done these climbs in while? I feel like whenever I am there, there is always some dude flailing hopelessly under Laughing Gull-- and ya, sometimes that's me-- but I have yet to see anybody climb it.

Jim

P.S. Chris, aren't those other areas mentioned in Boston Rocks?

By jim.dangle
Jan 17, 2012

Chris, thanks again for all the recent work on this site. Since you seem to be the man in the know it would be awesome if you could put together up an accurate topo of the main face weaving together all the newly added routes.

Also, it seems like there might be some more routes on the North end. There are 3 mentioned in the Boston Rocks. I think there is one on the left side (left of Rip Van Winkle) moving under the arete which looks fun but needs cleaning. I am also not sure if Slip Van Winkle is the climb mentioned in Boston Rocks as-- from memory-- the climb is supposed to start just to the right of the Rip Van Winkle, and I don't think the arete is mentioned (whereas Slip Van Winkle is clearly an arete climb). So, maybe there are 4 climbs there(?). There may even be another easy climb up the arete on the left side.

Anyway, thanks again!

Jim

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jan 19, 2012

Jim, yes I would be glad to do that. I was actaully planning on doing one for each of the crags at Redrocks once we finish with cleaning Down Under, Master's, etc.... Those old topos are awesome. Do you know who drew them up?

Also, I have been meaning to go play around on the north end with the guidebook and try and figure those routes out. It certainly seems like there are at least 4 lines there.

By Nic the brit
May 7, 2012

Having started climbing again after a twenty year layoff. I didn't know what to expect at Redrock, but after being there loads of times and discovering all the places except the south wall (didn't know it existed), there are so many routes I want to do there. It reminds me of gritstone crags back home, a real hidden gem. I'm gonna clean Oz next time I go, cuz I wanna do all the routes there.

By jim.dangle
Apr 30, 2013

Has anyone climbed the crack between High Me and Zits? It's a layback flake that maybe never dries. Looks burly but fun. If it ever dries, surely someone has climbed it.

It's the furthest right crack in the photo here:

www.mountainproject.com/v/107385465

Jim

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jun 18, 2013

Jim, yes, that is a fun line. Layback up the railing crack, and you can get a little exposure on the chopped chicken head up above... it's also one of the longer lines up there.

By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
Sep 6, 2013

My first visit to Stage Fort Park was while I was in my mid-teens around '75.
I grew up in Marblehead and had a cool summer circuit. I would ride up Rte 127 to Stage Fort and boulder. Then I'd ride around Gloucester and up to Rockport and swim in the quarries mid-day. After swimming, I would ride out of Rockport back to Gloucester and then go climb at Red Rock in the afternoon before heading home.

It was on my second or third visit to Stage Fort Park that I met Kurt Winkler, and he was the one that told me about Red Rock. Kurt is originally from Gloucester and started climbing long before I did.
I suggest someone contact him and see if he knows any of the hitory of Cape Anne climbing.

A good resource for some early info:
Climbing in Eastern Massachucetts
by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick
"

<em>Climbing in Eastern Massachusetts</em> paperback by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick.
Climbing in Eastern Massachusetts paperback by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick.
"

By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
Sep 6, 2013

By jim.dangle
Apr 30, 2013:
"Has anyone climbed the crack between High Me and Zits? It's a layback flake... "

Trust me, if it's 5.9 or easier it was climbed in Blue suede RR's with lug soles.
If it's .11d or easier it was climbed in EB's

Around 76' or so? Bradley Achorn and I went through three wire brushes and a pair of leather work gloves cleaning 'Zits' (not what we named our TR version of the climb)

Please take no offence, there has been some great work cleaning/developing the crag in recent years. But you guys are reinventing a very, very old wheel ;)