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Redneck Protester 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Derek Weiss
Page Views: 310
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
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Description 

Starts directly above the cold-shut bolted belay of Everything's Gone Green. Climb easy 5.7 on gear for first 35 ft. to first bolt above ledge. difficult onsight but w/ the right beta both roofs go easy 11. You can bail right at the last roof if you're too pumped and climb past the little tree. Rap 100' from two cold shuts (one 60m rope) to E.G.G anchors. Watch the ends of your rope on this rap! 60m rope just touches ledge.


Protection 

Eight bolts to two bolt belay at top of buttress. Plus pro to #1 Camalot for start.



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By Jimbo
Nov 2, 2007

OK, there is no way going straight up past the bolt on the second roof is 5.11. Mid .12 would be a conservative rating. Besides the climbing takes you to a stem on the column to the right and then to the little tree, going straight up is contrived and way hard.
The first roof is a hoot, however.
There is also some big loseness on this route that will take out the belayer when it goes. Climb careful.

By markguycan
From: flagstaff, az
Aug 29, 2009

yes Jimbo the 2nd roof does pull to the right, yeah maybe it is contrived to avoid the tree over there but I do it on thin holds and firmly believe it is only 5.11; The hardest part of sending this route is reading the line. As far as loose stuff- if you stay away from the right corner below the 1st roof you'll be fine.

By Jimbo
Sep 3, 2009

I can't use thin holds, I specialize in low angle jug hauls.

Hope to spend a several days at ISO this fall. Great area!!!

Strong work by all the FA folks.