Classic, secure, and elegant. These are all words that would aptly describe the climbing on this great line. A destination route to be sure.
Begin up the left side of the pillar which steepens into a moderate offwidth section (5.8, 4-5" piece). Surmount the pillar then follow the bolt line up and left through the steep headwall on good crips/dishes past a short thin section (crux) More moderate terrain leads to a final interesting move before the belay chains.
Start: 20' right of Buckwheat on the belay ledge with the low bolt.
Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with two ropes or alternatively rap over to the Buckwheat anchors with a single rope and rappel from there.
4-5" cam, 12 draws
2 bolt anchor
|By Greg Kuchyt|
Jul 2, 2012
Since this was mentioned on the parent page I will cover it. A 4" piece allows you to perfectly protect what is probably the hardest section of the OW pillar (5.8). A 4.5-5" piece would give you more placement options and probably the ability to bump the piece. If you are comfortable at the grade of this route, you should be fine with the 4" piece but I offer the info all the same.