Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
River Wall II
Select Route:
Arresting Arete S 
Big Big Monkey Man T,S 
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 
Box, The T,TR 
Brother From Another Planet S 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 
Introducing Meteor Dad S 
Le Diamant E'ternal S 
Livewire T,S 
Neurosurgeon T 
New Horizon S 
Pocket Hercules T 
Redneck Hero S 

Redneck Hero 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Harold Greib & Wolfgang Schweiger, 7/87
Page Views: 8,076
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Dec 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Through the crux.
CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Classic pumpy sport route climbs directly out of the drink. Reach the Escape from Alcatraz pedastal via rock hopping across river, or access the right side of wall and boulder again left. Climbing directly left from the pedestal, clip traversing bolt with runner or double runner (or unclip later). Now, climb the past the corner and up into the thuggish face. The crux comes near the top after the pump is well settled into the forearms. Great moves, rock and fun!


Protection 

Seven or eight bolts to two bolt anchor from the bolt anchor on the pedastal below Escape From Alcatraz. It is listed as 'R' in guide, but perhaps bolt was added, for there were no sizable run-outs as of late.



Photos of Redneck Hero Slideshow Add Photo
Bob Horan on Red Neck Hero.
Bob Horan on Red Neck Hero.
Exiting the crux.
Exiting the crux.
Fun fun fun.
Fun fun fun.
Yager starting the FPA (First Pantless Ascent).
Yager starting the FPA (First Pantless Ascent).
Andrew Tower starting up the 12a jug haul Redneck Hero.
Andrew Tower starting up the 12a jug haul Redneck ...
Brr.
Brr.
The opening 1/3 of Redneck Hero.
The opening 1/3 of Redneck Hero.
Comments on Redneck Hero Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 15, 2012
By Mark Morehouse
Apr 4, 2002

This is definitely a pumpy route. I agree that it did not seem runout!

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 4, 2002

There definitely was a runout (for those struggling with 12a) around mid height (perhaps between 3rd and 4th bolts?) on the route some years ago.

By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2003

There is a good spot after the 4th clip for a red Alien, which makes is it a little less runout. Definitely a great route.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 20, 2004

Yeah, it's a little less protected than a lot of sport climbs, but definitely don't let that bother you at all. This line has the most clean fall possible, and there's no ground fall potential (or ground...). I don't think most people would bother with the Alien placement, either.

Superlative route, worth the effort to get there.

By XOG
Jul 25, 2005

Excellent route. Agree with the comment about "for people struggling with 12a, it's a little runout". Probably none of the moves on it are 12a but endurance is a huge factor. The main runout for me is above bolt 5, although as Ted says the red alien does take the edge off of clipping bolt [5]. Seems like if you blow clipping bolt 6, you could fall 25' (I fell 20' from a little below the clipping hold), but as people note it's as clean as falls get and the bolts are where they should be. A couple of notes - down at the bottom before bolt 1 be careful about jug-hauling on the easy overhanging terrain, some of those big holds are hollow and would come off right in your face. The climbing is easy enough that it's possible to avoid pulling hard on them. Similarly up high (just below the last bolt below the anchors) there is at least one big hold out right that is not too solid. There appears to be a sporadic history of bolt replacement on this climb. Some of the bolts have been upgraded (most significantly the crux bolt 5 and bolt 4) while others (bolt 6 and one of the bolts lower down on the route, maybe bolt 2?) are less than confidence inspiring. Probably the re-equiping of this route should just be finished, but if nothing else it would be nice to replace bolt 6 since if it pulled you'd be going for a 50 footer.

By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2006

In my opinion, this is hands down the best 12a on the Front Range. It is super sustained and really, really pumpy. Stellar.

By Brad Durbin
May 25, 2007

Great route. One of the better routes I have been on lately. Holds are all really good but allow for the pump. Some of the bolt hangers are loose. Last bolt hanger in particular. River is running high which contributes to the excitement. Well worth it.

By j gatchalian
From: denver, co
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Such an amazing route, def the best of the grade I've been on in the Front Range.

Just curious what it is like to belay a fall on this rig...everyone I have gone up there with has flashed or onsighted it, so I have never had to worry about it. Seems like it could be harsh when you're anchored in. Anyone have any stories to share?

By jeremy long
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011

WOW! Beautiful, fun route. That 2nd crux at the very top is pumpy.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 21, 2012

In regards to catching a fall, it ain't so bad. You just get yanked a little. I would recommend a grigri if you are worried about it.

By Adam Sanders
From: Louisville, CO
Dec 1, 2012

There were draws left on this for at least a few days recently. This is really not the best place to leave gear hanging, as there is about 200 times the nature walker/fisherman traffic as there are climbers. I have no problem with leaving draws up your proj for a bit, but it's best to use discretion. Maybe the folks that left them up didn't realize just how popular the road/trails are for walking, etc. Let's all make sure this place never has any access issues. It's a real gem. Have fun out there!

By Adam Sanders
From: Louisville, CO
Dec 15, 2012

I went back out there today, and those same draws were still up (over 2 weeks now). No hard feelings, but as I mentioned before, this wall is admired by WAY more walkers, etc. than climbers. I clipped all the draws together and tucked them on the sheltered ledge right above the anchors. They are near impossible to see from the road but pretty obvious to a topping out climber. Everyone who does not own them - please leave them be until the owner has a chance to pick them up, just like you would if they were on the route. Cheers!