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N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Crowders Mountain
> Main Climbing A…
> 04. David's Castle Wall
Rediscovery
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | This route was likely climbed 5 different ways in the 80's by the old FA crew but never documented. |
Page Views: | 1,020 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Wade Parker on Feb 8, 2013 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
According to the old school locals, this route was scampered all over on back in the 80's by the original FA crew but it was never documented. Considering the quality of the climbing minus a rotten band at the lip of the roof, it is hard to believe the route never made it into any guidebooks. It was most recently rediscovered, cleaned off and nick named.
Climb the crack 5' left of Rocky's Roof. Continue up the right facing corner and then on the orange face up and to the right of Stupid Roof. Cut left over the roof through steep jugs with feet just above the lip of the roof. Climb up and left until over the center of the roof. Scramble straight to the top just left of the two small shrubs. Many cracks and pillars can be protected / slung to set up a natural belay anchor at the top. If rappelling or TRing, a 60m rope will barely reach the ground depending how high or low you set your anchor.
Climb the crack 5' left of Rocky's Roof. Continue up the right facing corner and then on the orange face up and to the right of Stupid Roof. Cut left over the roof through steep jugs with feet just above the lip of the roof. Climb up and left until over the center of the roof. Scramble straight to the top just left of the two small shrubs. Many cracks and pillars can be protected / slung to set up a natural belay anchor at the top. If rappelling or TRing, a 60m rope will barely reach the ground depending how high or low you set your anchor.
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