Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 531 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Amadeus DeKastle on Nov 8, 2013 |
Admins: | Amadeus DeKastle |
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Description
This is a climb on the obvious wall next to Reveil La Matin in Area 3.
The first pitch starts with a bolt at waist level (presumably to catch your dead body from rolling all the way down the mountain if you fall before the first bolt) and the next bolt is about 8 meters off the ground. Everything on this climb is super run out. Nothing has been cleaned and there is moss, lichen, and dirt everywhere.
The second pitch is also super run out with the first bolt above the belay station about 6 meters up. Also uncleaned. There are three climbs that share the first pitch and then they split up on the second pitch. This climb goes directly up from the belay station.
The crux on the first pitch is just keeping your head together so you don't fall. The second pitch crux is at the 4th bolt. It seems that the guy who set this route was a bit taller than me (about 6 inches) and so for him the 4th bolt was at a great location to clip, but near impossible for a short guy like me.
The first pitch starts with a bolt at waist level (presumably to catch your dead body from rolling all the way down the mountain if you fall before the first bolt) and the next bolt is about 8 meters off the ground. Everything on this climb is super run out. Nothing has been cleaned and there is moss, lichen, and dirt everywhere.
The second pitch is also super run out with the first bolt above the belay station about 6 meters up. Also uncleaned. There are three climbs that share the first pitch and then they split up on the second pitch. This climb goes directly up from the belay station.
The crux on the first pitch is just keeping your head together so you don't fall. The second pitch crux is at the 4th bolt. It seems that the guy who set this route was a bit taller than me (about 6 inches) and so for him the 4th bolt was at a great location to clip, but near impossible for a short guy like me.
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