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Elevation: 6,252 ft
GPS: 39.9312, -105.28518
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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Description Suggest change

Some will arguably consider this the premier section of the premier cliff of the premier area for the Denver Metro area. Many will agree that it contains the premier route for the area with The Naked Edge. This section of Redgarden Wall will include terrain left of Redguard extending to Ruper and including all above the Roof Routes and above the Lower Ramp.

Wow, what an amazing stretch of rock with an amazing history. It all began, as documneted in B. Godfrey's & D. Chelton's Climb!, with the first ascent of T2 by Layton Kor & Gerry Roach in 1959, starting with the intro by Kor of "want to go climbing tomorrow, Gerry?", "Sure, Layton, what's up?", "Uh, just a route in Eldorado. I'll pick you up at 4 a.m." The climb proceeded as planned with the classic-Kor statements during the ascent of "This route's gotta go!" and Tower Two was opened for climbing.

The famous Naked Edge began with Stanley Sheperd visualizing a line up this same buttress while reading the lurid novel Naked Edge (which has been made into a movie). The unstoppable Kor followed a terrified retreat off the line with S. Komito with success in 1962 with B. Culp to open this most famous line. In 1971, Jim Erickson & Duncan Ferguson fulfilled Pat Ament's vision of a free Naked Edge. Subsequently, it has become the goal of ultra-bold soloists and even captured on film of the late-Derek Hersey soloing Naked Edge (along with The Diving Board) in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks. However, note this is a bold line has hazards for even gifted climbers. Some may recall the incredible story documented in Jeff Achey's Climb and in an article in Rock & Ice of Coral Bowman, in 1978, who rappelled off her line and in superhuman fashion grabbed and caught herself barehanded with her haul line, & horribly burned her hands. She saved own her life but the experience completely changed her climbing career. So, be careful up there.

Many videos have celebrated the spectacular climbing here including Peter Mortimer's excellent Scary Faces with its focus on Jules Verne, Beth Bennett & Lynn Hill's video on an early all-female free attempt (title?), and others.

Some of the classics here include: the popular Touch 'n Go, 5.9; the daring route, The Serpent, 5.10b s; T2, 5.10d s; the intimidating The Diving Board, 5.11a; the ultra-classic The Naked Edge, 5.11b; the demanding Lene's Dream, 5.11b s; Love Minus Zero, 5.11c s: the intimidating Jules Verne, 5.11c s/vs; the near-sport route, The Contest, 5.11d; Green Willow Wall, 5.11d s; Rise Above aka Mr. Malcontent, 5.12a; and the super-exposed Wingless Victory, 5.13b.

The climbs here are what many of us dream about and live for!

It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.

Getting There Suggest change

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your exact line and preference. To access the furthest R routes, you can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2.

55 Total Climbs

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Location: Redgarden - Tower Two Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Tower Two

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 519
Touch 'N' Go
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
Bolting for Glory
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 496
Rosy Crucifixion
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 161
T2
Trad 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 58
The Diving Board
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 471
The Naked Edge
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 61
Jules Verne
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny o…
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 30
Lene's Dream
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
Genius Loci
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 8
Green Willow Wall
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent
Trad, Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
 5
Wingless Victory
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 4
Between Heaven and Earth
Trad 3 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 9
Centaur
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Touch 'N' Go
 519
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Bolting for Glory
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rosy Crucifixion
 496
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
T2
 161
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 7 pitches
The Diving Board
 58
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
The Naked Edge
 471
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Jules Verne
 61
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad 6 pitches
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrut…
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lene's Dream
 30
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad
Genius Loci
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Green Willow Wall
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad, Sport
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Wingless Victory
 5
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R Sport
Between Heaven and Earth
 4
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad 3 pitches
Centaur
 9
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Redgarden - Tower Two »

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