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Redgarden - Tower Two

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10,000 Leagues 
After The Gold Rush 
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Bolting for Glory 
Briny Deep, The 
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Centaur 
Contest, The 
Diving Board, The 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) 
Fools Learn 
Genius Loci 
Ghoul's Turn 
Green Willow Wall 
Inset, The 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
King Tut 
Le Void 
Lene's Dream 
Love Minus Zero 
Naked Edge, The 
No Lo Contendere 
Old Bad Aid Crack 
One Way Out 
Orifophobia 
Plastic Jesus 
Predator 
PsychGillLogical 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
Rosy Crucifixion 
Scratch and Sniff 
Seams Beyond 
Seize of Holds 
Serpent, The 
Shasta 
Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
Slow Train Coming 
Superlink, The 
T2 
T2 Direct Finish 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 
Wingless Victory 

Redgarden - Tower Two 


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Location: 39.9312, -105.28518 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 442,382
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Some will arguably consider this the premier section of the premier cliff of the premier area for the Denver Metro area. Many will agree that it contains the premier route for the area with The Naked Edge. This section of Redgarden Wall will include terrain left of Redguard extending to Ruper and including all above the Roof Routes and above the Lower Ramp.

    Wow, what an amazing stretch of rock with an amazing history. It all began, as documneted in B. Godfrey's & D. Chelton's Climb!, with the first ascent of T2 by Layton Kor & Gerry Roach in 1959, starting with the intro by Kor of "want to go climbing tomorrow, Gerry?", "Sure, Layton, what's up?", "Uh, just a route in Eldorado. I'll pick you up at 4 a.m." The climb proceeded as planned with the classic-Kor statements during the ascent of "This route's gotta go!" and Tower Two was opened for climbing.

    The famous Naked Edge began with Stanley Sheperd visualizing a line up this same buttress while reading the lurid novel Naked Edge (which has been made into a movie). The unstoppable Kor followed a terrified retreat off the line with S. Komito with success in 1962 with B. Culp to open this most famous line. In 1971, Jim Erickson & Duncan Ferguson fulfilled Pat Ament's vision of a free Naked Edge. Subsequently, it has become the goal of ultra-bold soloists and even captured on film of the late-Derek Hersey soloing Naked Edge (along with The Diving Board) in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks. However, note this is a bold line has hazards for even gifted climbers. Some may recall the incredible story documented in Jeff Achey's Climb and in an article in Rock & Ice of Coral Bowman, in 1978, who rappelled off her line and in superhuman fashion grabbed and caught herself barehanded with her haul line, & horribly burned her hands. She saved own her life but the experience completely changed her climbing career. So, be careful up there.

    Many videos have celebrated the spectacular climbing here including Peter Mortimer's excellent Scary Faces with its focus on Jules Verne, Beth Bennett & Lynn Hill's video on an early all-female free attempt (title?), and others.

    Some of the classics here include: the popular Touch 'n Go, 5.9; the daring route, The Serpent, 5.10b s; T2, 5.10d s; the intimidating The Diving Board, 5.11a; the ultra-classic The Naked Edge, 5.11b; the demanding Lene's Dream, 5.11b s; Love Minus Zero, 5.11c s: the intimidating Jules Verne, 5.11c s/vs; the near-sport route, The Contest, 5.11d; Green Willow Wall, 5.11d s; Rise Above aka Mr. Malcontent, 5.12a; and the super-exposed Wingless Victory, 5.13b.

    The climbs here are what many of us dream about and live for!

    It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.


    Getting There 

    To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your exact line and preference. To access the furthest R routes, you can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2.


    46 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',19],['5.12',6],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Tower Two:
    Touch 'N' Go   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
    T2 Direct Finish   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Bolting for Glory   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Rosy Crucifixion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   
    The Serpent   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Trad   
    Seams Beyond   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
    T2   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Trad, 7 pitches, 700'   
    Slow Train Coming   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    The Diving Board   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   
    The Naked Edge   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 6 pitches, 460'   
    Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Jules Verne   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   
    Lene's Dream   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Love Minus Zero   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
    Predator   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, Sport   
    Green Willow Wall   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Genius Loci   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Contest   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Le Void   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R     Trad   
    Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport   
    Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Tower Two

    Featured Route For Redgarden - Tower Two
    Just one or two more hard moves to the jug!  Photo courtesy Clint Dillard.

    Jules Verne 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two
    This route has been somewhat immortalized by the local film Scary Faces, which has fueled the idea that it is a desperate & frightening run to the top of Redgarden. It's not. While it certainly brings a little spice to the leader's day, and for me, a serious dose of paste-mouth, it isn't the scare-fest some have made it out to be. This is a 6 pitch line starting with T2 but immediatel...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of Redgarden - Tower Two Slideshow Add Photo
    Redgarden Wall with the Naked Edge in the sun. November '08.
    Redgarden Wall with the Naked Edge in the sun. Nov...
    Skip Guerin practice climbing on Tower Two, jugging Centaur, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
    Skip Guerin practice climbing on Tower Two, juggin...
    The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttress has classic climbs like Anthill Direct. <br /> <br />Tower Two is home to the Naked Edge, T2, and many other classic routes.
    BETA PHOTO: The right side of Redgarden Wall. The South Buttre...
    The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upper Ramp. Installed 8/21/06. <br /> <br />Traverse in from climber's left to avoid using the tree to downclimb. <br /> <br />The rope pull is clean with little friction.  The rope only contacts the rock at the edge of the dropoff (where this photo was taken). <br /> <br />The old tree anchor is just to the right.
    BETA PHOTO: The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upp...
    Tower Two
    BETA PHOTO: Tower Two
    Looking up T2.
    Looking up T2.
    Tower Two and The Naked Edge
    Tower Two and The Naked Edge
    Comments on Redgarden - Tower Two Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ROC
    From: Englewood, CO
    Apr 5, 2006

    WARNING!!!

    The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".

    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 29, 2007

    ROC wrote:
    WARNING!!! The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable.

    A bolted rappel anchor was installed near this tree on 8/21/06, after approval by the Eldorado Fixed Hardware Review Committee. See Photo, Photo, Photo for details.

    By Coral Bowman
    May 26, 2010

    In the spirit of accuracy, I didn't actually rappel off the end of my rope. While trying to do the first all-female free ascent of The Edge with Sue Giller, the haul rope got stuck as she led up the third pitch. When Sue returned to the belay at the top of the 2nd pitch (so I could rappel down and free the haul rope from a crack) I quickly set up a rappel on our climbing rope (too quickly it turns out) and started down. When I pushed off to clear a small roof, that pressure flipped open the gates on the two carabiners I'd set up at the belay anchor. Apparently I hadn't reversed the gates and the rope popped out. I did think I was a goner but after falling about 20 feet I came within reach of the haul rope and managed to grab on, though at first I didn't think I would be able to hold it. Unbelievably my hands weren't burned that bad so I was able to unclip the useless rappel rope (after wrapping it around my leg for later) and clip the haul rope in to my "cross carabiner" brake on my waist tape -- while dangling in the air and hanging on with one hand (no harness back then), swing myself back into the rock to pull around the edge and rappel down to the top of the first pitch and clip in. By then my hands were freezing up and Sue helped me retreat. Though I am grateful for my literal strength, I was aware of saying as I looked at the ground zooming up below, prior to seeing the haul rope and grabbing it, "God, I'm not ready to die yet..." Coral

    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 19, 2010

    High resolution panorama of Tower Two (989 megapixels). You'll need Adobe Flash to use the GigaPan viewer.

    www.jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/redgarden-tower-two.html