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Redgarden - Roof Routes

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Steel T 
Clear the Deck T 
Clever Lever S 
Dangerous Acquaintances T 
Downpressor Man S 
Evangeline S 
Fire and Ice  T,S 
Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
Guen-Ice  T 
Guenese T 
Hands In The Clouds T,S 
Huck Off T,S 
Kloeberdanz T 
Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro T 
Last Rite T 
Le Toit T 
Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 
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Redgarden - Roof Routes  

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Location: 39.93112, -105.2846 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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  • Description 

    This section of Redgarden Wall will cover routes starting below the obvious S-facing roof at the base of Redgarden Wall starting L of Jules Verne and beginning with Clever Lever and extending to Le Toit and Rosy Toit. For those wondering, routes starting here but continuing on will be included in this section.

    The Roof Routes probably contain the most sport-like climbing in all of Eldorado Canyon. The first 40 to 60 feet of these routes involve delicate face climbing on mostly bullet-proof, fine grained, Fountain Formation sandstone. The next section involves a roof bit anywhere from about 8 to 15 feet in length. Then above, there is wonderful face climbing characterized by exposure and spartan protection options. Interestingly, this lower section is probably one of the few places in the area that can be climbed during precipitation, if it is not blowing sideways.

    Perhaps, one of the most famous stories for this section of the cliff is that on Layton Kor's Kloeberdanz. A fascinating section in Climb! describes Steve Wunsch's story of the freeing of Kloeberdanz, which is accompanied by images of hot Henry Barber dynamically flying for the lip of the roof and the story. Here, the teenage David Breashears, a.k.a. the Kloeberdanz kid, strolled up to the Briggs brothers working the route and statically walked the 1st pitch 2nd try! as described in Climb! and continued in the oral tradition.

    Where do you start with classics? You could probably almost call each and every route here a classic. Some do. Every route here is probably someone's favorite. So, please, take no offense with any inclusion or exclusion.

    Some of the classics here include: the verve-requiring Temporary Like Achilles, 5.10d s; Le Toit, 5.10d s; Le Verne, 5.10d s; the classic Guenese, 5.11a; the nervy Evangeline, 5.11b/c A1; the reachy Fire and Ice, 5.12a; 5.12a; Hands in the Clouds, 5.12a; the intimidating route, The Wisdom, 5.12a s; Downpressor Man, 5.12b; Scary Canary, 5.12b s; Wasabe, 5.12c; the impressive Psycho, 5.12c (possibly CO's 1st 5.12); Kloeberdeath, 5.13b; The Undertaker, 5.13d (by visiting Ben Moon), probably Eldo's hardest (perhaps with the exception of Matt Segal's Iron Monkey?), .

    The lower end climber will find nothing to climb here. Probably, you need to be climbing solid 5.11 to find much joy here, except to watch.

    Getting There 

    To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, you park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go R. Continue up the switchbacks and you will be close to the start of T2. Head uphill and L to the obvious section under the long roof and find you routes.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 0.2 miles from here

    29 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Roof Routes:
    Temporary Like Achilles   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport   
    Rosy Toit   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
    Le Toit   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Clear the Deck   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X     Trad   
    Guenese   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
    The Gem   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
    Evangeline   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1     Sport, Aid, 3 pitches   
    Kloeberdanz   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
    The Wisdom   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Fire and Ice    5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches   
    Dangerous Acquaintances   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Hands In The Clouds   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0     Trad, Sport, Aid   
    Clever Lever   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
    Huck Off   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport   
    Downpressor Man   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Wasabe   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Scary Canary   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
    Psycho   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 3 pitches   
    Kloeberdeath/Candallegro   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Roof Routes

    Featured Route For Redgarden - Roof Routes
    The 'slightly dicey' opening moves of pitch one, E...

    Evangeline 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Roof Routes
    This is one of the more popular and better protected roof routes.This climb starts to the [right] of Temporary Like Achilles; uphill 20 yards from Guenese. It can be identified by a heavily chalked shelf midway up and a seemingly juggy roof at the beginning. This is a great pitch, .10b over the roof, and pumpy reachy 5.11 climbing up higher on good holds. Once on top of the shelf, the crux breaks left on some sloping holds then angles back right to easier c...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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