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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
Dream Weaver T 
Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
Grand Course, The T 
Grandmother's Challenge T 
Great Zot Variation A., The T 
Great Zot, The T 
Green Hornet, The T,S 
Green Slab Direct T 
Green Slab-Original Route T 
Green Sleeves T 
Green Spur, The T 
Heddie La Rue T 
Hot Links T 
Hot Spur, The T 
Lost in Space T 
Maverick T 
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 
Northumberland Crack T 
Paris Girl S 
Piece of the Sun  T 
Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
Razors to Rubble T 
Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
Roof Wall, The T 
Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
Sunstar T 
Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

Redgarden - Lumpe to the top  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 39.93228, -105.28671 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 534,211
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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  • Description 

    The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.

    This section of Redgarden Wall includes routes from the top or left-most sections of Redgarden Wall to include Lumpe Tower. To define the irregular Lumpe tower, we exclude terrain on Tower One, which we arbitrarily demarcate by a line connecting the obvious large dihedral separating upper Tower One & Lumpe Tower, aka The Dirty Deed, and connect this to the ground with obvious, West Chimney.

    While this section may not be as packed with history as some of the other sections of Redgarden Wall, there is still interesting tidbits here like Larry Dalke just deciding to free The Green Spur in 1964 on a whim in Climb!. There is also a fun video clip of the talented, Beth Bennett climbing Silver Raven in Front Range Freaks.

    Some of the classics include: the fun Swanson Arete, 5.5; the beautiful Rewritten, 5.7; the zesty The Great Zot to The Zot Face, 5.8+; the fine Green Slab Direct, 5.9; challenging The Green Spur, 5.9; the desert-like Darkness 'til Dawn, 5.9+; the classic Grandmother's Challenge, 5.10c; the tricky Disappearing Act, 5.11a; the beautiful Silver Raven, 5.11d; the necky & controversial Paris Girl, 5.13a.

    One thing to consider here is that some of these lines do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm.

    There are few rappel routes in the area. You can descend Lumpe Tower with rappels along the Swanson Arete and right area with a traverse, 3 double rope rappels to the ground. You can also risk the rope-catching Dirty Deed rappel. When in doubt, you can always traverse left at the top of the walls here to a 3rd class-4th class descent beyond the Hot Spur.

    Getting There 

    To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder, and find your route. The obvious large chimney a short way above the ladder is West Chimney.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 0.2 miles from here

    47 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
    ['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',9],['5.9',9],['5.10',8],['5.11',9],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Lumpe to the top:
    Swanson Arete   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Rewritten   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches   
    Rebuffat's Arete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
    Green Slab-Original Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
    Direct Variation to Zot Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    The Great Zot   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches   
    Waiting Room   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
    The Zot Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
    Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Green Slab Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
    The Green Spur   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Darkness 'til Dawn   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Grandmother's Challenge   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
    The Grand Course   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
    The Green Hornet   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
    Rabbits From Hats   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Silver Raven   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad   
    Paris Girl   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

    Featured Route For Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
    Photo op: Sara Watson on last pitch approaching to...

    Swanson Arete 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
    This is a beginner classic. This was named in memory of Jon Swanson who was killed descending Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks in 1968.There are many ways to start this climb. Option 1: Start as for Rewritten, but after P1, traverse up to the Red Ledge to the right. Find a tree to the right of the West Chimney and belay from here. 5.7 PG-13.Option 2: Do the West Chimney passing a 2 bolt intermediate anchor and continue up to either the 2 bolt 2nd anchor (50...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
    Photos of Redgarden - Lumpe to the top Slideshow Add Photo
    Somewhere past Lumpe Tower (maybe above Lost In Sp...
    Somewhere past Lumpe Tower (maybe above Lost In Sp...
    Another Sunday in Eldorado.  How many ropes can yo...
    Another Sunday in Eldorado. How many ropes can yo...

    Comments on Redgarden - Lumpe to the top Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anthony Everhart
    Mar 15, 2012
    CONDITION REPORT 
    I followed a new leader and dragged a first time rock climber up Zot/Rewritten yesterday, and in the mix of belaying two peeps at the same time, a gold Camalot got left on the route. I think it is just off the Red ledge. If you need it, keep it, if you're not gonna use it, hit me up.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 7, 2002
    Anyone up there on 8/6/2 Tuesday that know where that huge boulder came from that fell off somewhere up hill from Great Zot? Sunstar? GC? Green Spur? The trail?