L to R R to L Alpha
The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder, and find your route. The obvious large chimney a short way above the ladder is West Chimney.
Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Lumpe to the top:
Swanson Arete 5.5 Trad, 3 pitches
Rewritten 5.7 Trad, 6 pitches
The Great Zot 5.8+ Trad, 5 pitches
Green Slab Direct 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches
The Green Spur 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches
Darkness 'til Dawn 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Grandmother's Challenge 5.10c Trad, 2 pitches
Disappearing Act 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet
The Grand Course 5.11- Trad, 2 pitches
The Green Hornet 5.11b PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190 feet
Silver Raven 5.11d Trad
Featured Route For Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Swanson Arete 5.5 CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
Beginner classic. This was named in memory of Jon Swanson who was killed descending Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks in 1968.There are many ways to start this climb. Option 1: Start as for Rewritten, but after P1, traverse up to the Red Ledge to the right. Find a tree to the right of the West Chimney and belay from here. 5.7 PG-13.Option 2: Do the West Chimney passing a 2 bolt intermediate anchor and continue up to either the 2 bolt 2nd anchor (50m) or cont...[more] Browse More Classics in CO