The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall
is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.
This section of Redgarden Wall
includes routes from the top or left-most sections of Redgarden Wall
to include Lumpe Tower. To define the irregular Lumpe tower, we exclude terrain on Tower One
, which we arbitrarily demarcate by a line connecting the obvious large dihedral separating upper Tower One
& Lumpe Tower, aka The Dirty Deed, and connect this to the ground with obvious, West Chimney.
While this section may not be as packed with history as some of the other sections of Redgarden Wall
, there is still interesting tidbits here like Larry Dalke just deciding to free The Green Spur in 1964 on a whim in Climb!
. There is also a fun video clip of the talented, Beth Bennett climbing Silver Raven in Front Range Freaks
Some of the classics include: the fun Swanson Arete
, 5.5; the beautiful Rewritten
, 5.7; the zesty The Great Zot
to The Zot Face
, 5.8+; the fine Green Slab Direct
, 5.9; challenging The Green Spur
, 5.9; the desert-like Darkness 'til Dawn
, 5.9+; the classic Grandmother's Challenge
, 5.10c; the tricky Disappearing Act
, 5.11a; the beautiful Silver Raven
, 5.11d; the necky & controversial Paris Girl
One thing to consider here is that some of these lines do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm.
There are few rappel routes in the area. You can descend Lumpe Tower with rappels along the Swanson Arete and right area with a traverse, 3 double rope rappels to the ground. You can also risk the rope-catching Dirty Deed rappel. When in doubt, you can always traverse left at the top of the walls here to a 3rd class-4th class descent beyond the Hot Spur.
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket
Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge
. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove
area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder, and find your route. The obvious large chimney a short way above the ladder is West Chimney.
Weather station 0.2 miles from here
48 Total Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Lumpe to the top:
Rewritten 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches
Waiting Room 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Green Sleeves 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Paris Girl 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
R Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Rewritten 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CO
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. Six pitches takes you to the summit of the Middle Buttress via Rebuffat's Arete. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove.P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. Take your pick.P2: Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Le...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Anthony Everhart
Mar 15, 2012
I followed a new leader and dragged a first time rock climber up Zot/Rewritten yesterday, and in the mix of belaying two peeps at the same time, a gold Camalot got left on the route. I think it is just off the Red ledge. If you need it, keep it, if you're not gonna use it, hit me up.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 7, 2002
Anyone up there on 8/6/2 Tuesday that know where that huge boulder came from that fell off somewhere up hill from Great Zot? Sunstar? GC? Green Spur? The trail?