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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp  


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Location: 39.9309, -105.28548 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,109
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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  • Description 

    This section of Redgarden Wall is easily defined since it encompasses the rock below the Lower Ramp. This Lower Ramp is the Flatiron-like ramp at the upper end of the Roof Routes. Rock in this section is decent to good in spots, but certainly is fractured & loose in others. Helmets may be advisable for days playing here. On the positive side, this area is rarely, if ever, crowded.

    Probably the most notable press this section of the cliff has received was when it was highlighted with Eric Johnson seeking to tick the obscure, Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks.

    Certainly, this section may be lean on the classics. In fact, if you read through the list here for Redgarden Wall, none of these made that list. One was close. For the visiting climber with limited time, this area may be skipped. Nonetheless, for the discerning palate, there are still some delicacies here.

    Some of the better routes in the section may include: Vertical Smile, 5.7; Pickpocket, 5.8 vs or TR; The Slimy Spoon, 5.8 PG-13; Mr. Natural, 5.8+; Unknown, 5.10c+; Breakfast of Champions, 5.11a s; the near-list-making Suparete, 5.11a/b; Toys for Tots, 5.11a/b; Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs; Captain Crunch, 5.13a.

    Note, Roving for Love, 5.11c s, was included here, since in the description it begins here with Suparete.

    Descents here may involve rappels or downclimbing the top of the Lower Ramp or other ramps.

    So, for the seeker of the obscure or the road less-traveled, close to the road in Eldorado Canyon, perhaps a wander in this area is worth your energy.

    Getting There 

    To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go L. The first rock you reach here will be the Pickpocket Wall. To reach most of the routes here, you can take the 3rd class Redgarden Trail which follows around the the western-facing sections of the Redgarden Wall. Some routes like Vertical Smile may trickier to locate and involve the approach to the Roof Routes and bushwhacking around the left side of the Lower Ramp.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 0.2 miles from here

    49 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',4]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',12],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',11],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp:
    Mr. Natural   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    The Dispensary   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
    Suparete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Breakfast Of Champions   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Super Slab Direct Start   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
    Captain Crunch   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

    Featured Route For Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
    Easy climbing to here...the arete moves of the fir...

    Suparete 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram...
    Eds. this route is actually the retrobolted line of Quantum MechanicsJust what I was looking for: another Mark Tarrant route. But what a first ascent team!! Who has not done at least 500 of Dan Hare's routes? And here we find Mark and Dan together on nothing more significant than a nifty approach to Super Slab. Not a waste of great talent however. This fine pitch is often done as a quick after-work one pitch route on superb stone or the absolutely best approach to [[Super Slab]...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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