Starts at the toe of the buttress.
The first pitch was dangerously loose ,after that the rock improved. Take the easiest line over and around the gigantic steps to the summit.
The final pitch is along a knife edge ridge.
This was the first ascent of this crag, the approach was long walk from a dam along the south side of the river. The first ascent was completed at dark ,a cold bivy on the top and a difficult bush whack back down the left side of the crag back to the river.
Just right of the climb on the first ascent the climbers were impressed by a massive 1000' waterfall. Ross mention to a NH friend Kurt Winkler that if this waterfall freezes it would be the most spectacular ice climb in the Eastern America's. Indeed it is as Winkler and friend traveled up the next winter and climbed the now very famous ice climb The Pomme D'Or.
Mont de L'Equerre is on the left (south) side of the valley .
Nov 24, 2014
Paul Ross and John Porter: That was a proud route you guys did. Must have been quite the adventure!