| The Cookie Cliff |
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Red Zinger 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Ray Jardine, Dave Altman 9/79 |
| Season: | Year around |
| Submitted By: | Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007 |
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Feeling good after my redpoint
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The climb start somewhat casually. Then the crack narrows to tips and widens again to fingers. Good footwork is essential in the upper parts. Many say that this climb is easier than Butterballs.
Location Shares start with Meat Grinder. Breaks left after 20 feet.
Protection Gear up to 2 but mostly small.
Thanks to James for Photo
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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2011
| Really cool pitch! Good rests right before you jump into the business and would be C1 if you did have to aid through any part. No reason to wait so jump on this pitch! If you needed any extra motivation, I thought it was a little easier than it looked. Good, albeit small feet chips around the crack.
Take maybe 1 or 2 blue alien size. Most of the business is yellow alien to .5 camalot then one or two .75s at the end and maybe #1 if you want (the climbing is a bit easier after the jug hand jam to finish the crux). If you were to take triples of anything, probably yellow alien to .5 size. You can place nuts in spots too... if you want to hold on that long to do it!
Anyone know what the deal is with linking up the .12 to the left then jumping right into the seam and past the bush to finish on this route? Looks like it's been done and looks cool too! |
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