Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Crack, The T 
Boondoggle T 
Byrd Pinnacle Left T 
Feather S 
Friar, The T 
J + J Groove T 
Lemon Bomb T 
Red Zinger T 
Skyline T 
Trim T 
Unknown T 
V Formation T 
Whoosh T 
Wrangler Hero? T 
Xyphoid Fever T 
Xyphoid Left T 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Zinger 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 5,392
Submitted By: david goldstein on Mar 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Unknown climber whipping off in Red Zinger's shado...

Description 

An Indian Creek style crack climb which would probably get three stars if it were longer or didn't have a big ledge in the middle.

The climb follows a left facing corner in a west facing alcove about five minutes walk east of Solar Slab gully.

P1: 75', 5.10. Mostly fun, 5.9 jamming and laybacking with a technical stem/reach at 3/4 height. This pitch has several stances/rests and ends at a rap station on a big ledge.

P2: 35', 5.10+. Though Swain rates these two pitches the same, P2 is harder, particularly to lead. The crux is quite reminiscent of The Wave on Supercrack Buttress at Indian Creek -- laybacking around a bulge; have a 1.5 Friend size piece ready to go. After about 35' the crack ends at a large roof where there is a rap station. Two short raps to descend. A single 60m rope might just make it from the second anchor to the ground. If you don't do the continuation described below, the leader will be a lot more comfortable if he/she lowers from the end of the 2nd pitch and belays from the first rap station.

It is possible to continue from the second anchor by slab traversing left about 15' and joining the crack system to left which has its own anchors and which Swain rumors to be 5.9 but looks harder. This continuation would add about 50' of climbing and provides an interesting contrast in styles --an abrupt transition from power laybacking to tenuous slabbing -- but is somewhat tricky to protect for the 2nd on without a big piece (~4.5 Camalot). The crux of the traverse is at the start, so the leader is protected adequately. Once the traverse is over, the crack above, which we did not climb, appears to require wide hand pieces, maybe 3 and 3.5 Camalots.

The climber in photo 1 is starting the P1 crux.

Protection 

Double set of cams from thin fingers to hands with perhaps a couple of extra in the rattly fingers / thin hands range. A couple of small to medium nuts come in handy on P1.


Photos of Red Zinger Slideshow Add Photo
Weston L leading the "crux" on P2
Weston L leading the "crux" on P2
Red Zinger
BETA PHOTO: Red Zinger
Climbers at 1st belay ledge of Red Zinger. Shot from Beulah's Book. 4/9/2011
Climbers at 1st belay ledge of Red Zinger. Shot fr...
Jon following P1
Jon following P1
Just befor the "hard" moves on p1
Just befor the "hard" moves on p1
Red Zinger corner
Red Zinger corner
The main left facing dihedral is Red Zinger.
BETA PHOTO: The main left facing dihedral is Red Zinger.
Burt (Jamcrack) just above the crux on P1
Burt (Jamcrack) just above the crux on P1
Climbers on 1st pitch of Red Zinger. Shot from Beulah's Book. 4/09/2011.
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on 1st pitch of Red Zinger. Shot from Beu...
Solar Slab Wall
BETA PHOTO: Solar Slab Wall
The crux!
The crux!
good rests
good rests

Comments on Red Zinger Add Comment
Show which comments
By 10b4me
Apr 17, 2004

Really unique route at RR. If you like Indian Creek, you'll like this one. I'd recommend 3 each of purple and green Camalots (0.5 and 0.75). I found the first pitch really fun; I found the crux on the second pitch really hard, even for 5.10+...BTW, we have beta about several RR routes and loads of US and Canadian classics on our site: ericandlucie.com.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

SUPERB. one of the best single pitch crack routes in Red Rocks.
Crux maybe the bulge after first anchor.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 31, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A great "bonus" pitch after climbing a long route on Solar Slab.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

really great route with varied movement and great pro. stout, though- especially the second pitch. i'd say the first pitch is height dependent at the crux- the shorter you are, the tougher you have to be!
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Stems, liebacks and jams on P1 and a powerful but short .10d crux lieback on P2.

Great route and a lot of good rests, I just wish it was longer.
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 2, 2011

I remember thinking that the second pitch crux bulge would protect better with non-BD sizes. The green was too big or too small, I forget. Might be smart to mix up brands on this one a bit. Agree that the P1 crux felt stretchy, definitely some in-your-face climbing, way fun.
By slim
Administrator
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

i thought i remember the bulge being #2 friend, but it has been a really long time since i did it.
By Mostafa
From: Alameda
Dec 23, 2013

Pitch one seemed more like low 5.10 with a mid to hard 5.10 crux there are a couple good rests tho. Pitch two was burly for me but protects really well. Crux gear beta. .75 seemed small and 1 camalot seemed to big. The crack flares a little behind I had a 1 go in easily from good position that ended up getting stuck...came back next day to retrieve it. Single rack with doubles .5-2 is nice don't forget the small gear tho..you'll thank me for that.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Pretty damn good! Hollow but seemingly solid features to start with, although that definitely was a surprise to me. Webbing at both rappel stations in good shape as of 1/26/14.

RE the crux...first pitch felt harder for me, but I'm also short...and have a rather low IQ, so YMMV.