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Red Wall
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Red Wall 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 1,620
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Jan 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's topo from 198...

Description 

Gave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope.

P1, 5.7, orig start: Start to right of a large shoulder of rock and traverse up and left on little pro to the bottom of the dihedral and a bolt. Continue up the dihedral past another bolt (5.7). Pretty good gear placements will supplement below, between, and above the two bolts. Find bolted anchor with chains a little left of the top of the dihedral. 30 meters.

P1, direct start: Start in a kind of alcove below and slightly left of the dihedral. Climb about 15 feet up to the top of the shoulder on the right. Lean left a little to get some small-ish pro in a crack, straighten back up, then make a move or two up to good holds and more pro - decking potential on shoulder but not worse assuming good pro. Climb up to the first bolt at the bottom of the dihedral and then finish the pitch as above.

P2, 5.7: There is a roof or bulge above the belay which will be bypassed on the right. Climb up while trending slightly right through black rock with some pro; watch for loosness. Follow grassy ledge or ramp - initially steep - up and right getting any good pro you can along the way. Find above a right facing corner or slot and ascend it. Pro is scarce for making the first couple moves into the corner. Clip the now revealed bolt on the right and back it up as soon as you can. The route continues straight up the corner, passing to the left of a large bush and then up to the top.

P2 alternative as shown in the 1985 topo: Spiderman's P1 bolted anchor is visible to the right and slightly higher; traverse over to that anchor and finish on the second pitch of Spiderman.

Location 

See this Photo. Locate a large right facing dihedral which starts about 30 feet up from the ground.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 2 inches. Two bolts on P1 and then a bolted anchor with chains. P2 has one hidden bolt which appears to be the inferior Star Dryvin sleeve-and-nail style.


Photos of Red Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's beta for Redw...
Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's beta for Redw...
Jessi on the first pitch of Red Wall.
Jessi on the first pitch of Red Wall.

Comments on Red Wall Add Comment
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By dameeser
From: denver
Dec 31, 2009

We were there the other day, great day for climbing. Just wanted to let everyone know that on the climb Red Wall there is a tv size boulder just above the last belay ledge on pitch 2 that is loose. Be careful.
By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
Jan 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I prefer going right to the Spiderman anchor and then up for P2. One can place enough gear (I think I got in 5 pieces once) to make it pretty safe but it takes time and usually I just put in one or two.

Going straight up from the Red Wall anchor can be loose and unpleasant, but there are bolts.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jan 6, 2010

Thanks for posting the topo, Bob! I have added some comments to it.
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

About 20 feet up the second pitch is a prominent bulge/roof with an obvious (chalked) seem underneath that leads to the climber's right towards the corner. Completing this traverse was very nice with great rock and position and felt like solid 5.8. It is well protected and is much better than going up the brushy gully. If you go straight up from the belay (left of the black rock) to the roof and exit right to the corner, then P2 is quite good.