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(u) Red Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 
Amphetamine Grip T 
Animal Farm S 
Bay of Pigs S 
Bill's Flake T 
Breakdown in Paradise S 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 
Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
Finger Puppet S 
Fingers of Fate T 
Flex T 
Gulag Archipelago S 
I Almost Died T 
Lets Face It S 
Moscow T 
Orgasmophoria S 
Papillion S 
Peking T 
Phantasmagoria S 
Pop Art S 
Ride The Lightning S 
Sole Survivor S 
Straight Outta' Peking S 
Super Slab T 
Titanium Jag T 

(u) Red Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.3696, -121.13916 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,001
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 25, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>


The Red Wall has some of Smith's best multipitch moderates as well as a few classic tuft crimpfests. It is east facing and gets morning sun. The rock quality is generally good for Smith.

Getting There 

To approach cross the bridge and follow the trail up and right (north) until you get to the reddish colored rock. Allow 30 minutes from the car.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (u) Red Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (u) Red Wall:
Moscow   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Super Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
Amphetamine Grip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Peking   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Papillion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Flex   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Dirty Pinkos   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches   
Lets Face It   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Dances with Clams   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Straight Outta' Peking   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Orgasmophoria   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Phantasmagoria   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bay of Pigs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
Fingers of Fate   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
I Almost Died   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Ride The Lightning   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Sole Survivor   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Gulag Archipelago   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 380'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (u) Red Wall

Featured Route For (u) Red Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Nora on Phantasmagoria.  Tim Belaying.

Phantasmagoria 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  OR : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall
Long, technical series of edges, most of which are rounded. There's a couple of cool bulges. Personally, I like this route because it gives you the opportunity to climb Orgasmaphoria. Together, they make for a fun lazy afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts. By itself, I'd say that you could do these exact moves on any of fifty other routes at Smith. For those uninitiated to Smith, or who never tire of rounded, technical tuff edges, this won't be a problem.Again, as l...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of (u) Red Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Wall topo
BETA PHOTO: Red Wall topo
Rock Climbing Photo: red wall
BETA PHOTO: red wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Paper Tiger - view down from near the top.
Paper Tiger - view down from near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shattered Amphitheter between Super Slab and Papil...
Shattered Amphitheter between Super Slab and Papil...

Comments on (u) Red Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Dubs
May 30, 2014
Would totally recommend wearing a helmet in this area. Or always when standing under a route. In 2 days I saw 2 separate rock fall incidents last weekene, 1 of which would have absolutely killed a woman and an man with his dog if not for missing by a few feet. All melon sized rock.

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