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Chasm View Wall
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Red Wall 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kor & Bossier, 1963
Page Views: 4,590
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 13, 2004

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Description 

Red Wall is one of the two major lines on Chasm View wall. While it has some quality climbing, it also has a lot of ledgey terrain and, particulary at the top, loose crap. Probably a good climb if you've done everything else in the area, but I think the Casual Route is a way better climb at the grade (and not too much longer).

Approach: From Chasm Lake you can clearly identify the long 5.7 ramp of the first pitch and the 10c dihedral/pillar above. Actually, you can pretty much see every pitch. Scramble in from the left up 4th class ledges to the very base of the first pitch - there is a big grassy ledge here. If you stop any sooner, you'll probably end up having to simul-climb some to reach the first belay.

P1: Climb a long, exposed, left-trending ramp (5.7) to a ledge at the base of a nice finger crack in an obvious right-facing dihedral. Depending on your choice of second pitches, belay here at a ring pin, or step left around the corner, walk along a narrow ledge, and belay at below a small roof and perfect hand crack in a second right-facing corner. This is a long pitch.

P2 (Option 1): The first option you come to. Take the striking finger crack up the gradually-steepening corner. Belay up and left. 5.10c/d.

P2 (Option 2): Around the corner, take the really nice hand crack for 30 feet, then continue up a strange dihedral/chimney for another 25 feet. 5.8.

P3: The rumored "death flake" pitch. Climb up and left off the belay and up into a six-inch crack that is formed by the margins of two huge flakes. Both of these flakes are hollow, but neither felt like they were "about to go." Nevertheless, I kept my pro in the left (and better of the two). Climb these flakes with combinations of jamming and liebacking (all very secure), and then stand up onto the top of the righthand flake: this is perhaps the scariest moment - the flake is approx. 45' high, 8' wide, and 1-2' thick, and only attached at its base. Historically the belay is from slings around the top of this flake and a 1/4" bolt above, but I avoided tying myself to such a massive piece of granite by not clipping the slings and climbing another 15 feet up to a nice stance in a small right-facing corner. Here you can belay off a knife blade pin, a second 1/4 bolt, and bomber wires. All in all probably 5.9.

P4: Head up the shallow right-facing corner to the left-hand edge of a very obvious roof and perform a difficult move stepping right and up under the roof. One more difficult sequence involving underclings and a stem out right. The hanging belay off fixed wires at the right end of the roof feels kinda like cheating - you're sorta still in the last throws of the crux section - but what can ya do? A short pitch; 5.10-.

P5: Pull the roof and up a difficult and continuous right-facing corner. Climb all the way up to a big loose, ledge in the black band at the top of Chasm View wall. 5.10-.

P6: Traverse right for 100'. Belay almost at the very end of the ledge below a left-facing dihedral with a crack in the upper half. 4th class but exposed and loose in one spot.

P7: Climb up the corner to the start of the crack, then traverse right for 35' on positive foot ledges and jugs. Continuing straight up the crack is supposedly 9+, heading right is 5.6ish.

Protection 

SR.


Photos of Red Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Chasm View wall from the bivy boulders above Chasm Lake. The track of "Red Wall" is shown in black, with the approach and the variations (dotted line).
BETA PHOTO: Chasm View wall from the bivy boulders above Chasm...
Looking down on the beautiful third pitch.
Looking down on the beautiful third pitch.
The first pitch on a beautiful wall. All the holds here were covered with a fine black powder (looked like gun powder) which must be from rocks crashing down from the black band at the top of the route.
The first pitch on a beautiful wall. All the holds...
Beta photo:  Red Wall, RMNP, high res.
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo: Red Wall, RMNP, high res.
Approaching the crux undercling on pitch 4.
Approaching the crux undercling on pitch 4.
Kat A. approaches the sandbagged "10a" crux on the Red Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/08.
Kat A. approaches the sandbagged "10a" c...
Looking back across the fourth pitch at Frosty belaying.  <br />July of 89
Looking back across the fourth pitch at Frosty bel...
Christa contemplating the crux.
Christa contemplating the crux.
Here is a picture of the ramp system that leads back to the start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a picture of the ramp system that leads ba...

Comments on Red Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2014
By Shane DeMars
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 14, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great description of a route I would describe as far from great. Some points though:

I remember the pin at the end of the 4th pitch being a bomber Lost Arrow. In any case there is also another 1/4 in bolt at your feet there - rusted, bent, and with a loose hanger.

The dihedral that the end of the black ledge is Right facing; it's the cleanest looking feature at the end of the ledge. There are fixed pins at about 25' and 30', the second of which you may not see from below as it's above a bulge.

There is a left facing dihedral that one encounters approximately 20' before this one (left) which does go to the top, but does not lead to the 5.6 right leading ledge Josh mentions.

I'd also advise finding the beta on the 4th class descent from the top (marked by a cairn) which is reasonable and leads to your gear much faster than the Camel descent.

SD
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 14, 2004

As far as alpine rock routes go this is pretty good. Especially if combining with the Diamond in a weekend. By the way, I heard that rockfall a couple of years ago made this a bit harder. Anyone?
By Josh Janes
Jul 15, 2004

Assuming you know where the Camel formation is, the 4th class descent begins about 150m before reaching it, basically at the lowest point in the Longs/Lady Washington saddle. There is a cairn marking it, and to your left as you face the gully is a fairly large buttress. You descend at this point - the hardest part by far is the first 50' or so, requiring some exposed downclimbing. Then just continue down the gully until you can access the very obvious grassy ledge system (between 5 and 25' wide) that crosses all the way back across Chasm View wall. At the end of this ledge you just scramble a ways further (possibly snow crossing) to the access ramps that lead back up to the start of the climbs.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 14, 2008

Having done both Directissima and Red Wall within a week of each other, I felt that Red Wall is significantly harder than Directissima, even though they are similarly rated.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Wear a helmet on this route, and belay under large features, as sandbags are known to fall nearby!
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 16, 2008

One of those sandbags fell on me, and it kind of hurt!
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I actually really enjoyed this route. It would have been much better if 3 things were changed:

1. The Camel descent blows. At least I thought so. I would have much rather have brought shoes and just enjoyed a hike on the hiking trail back to Chasm Lake to our packs...especially as we had nice weather.

2. Belaying off the "Death" Flake isn't so much fun and I thought that you should either belay about 15' below it at a small ledge or run your belay higher as Josh indicated. However, the pins/bolts above the flake aren't any more inspiring than the flake itself.

3. Stopping to belay at the end of the roof really ruined this pitch. Don't get me wrong I still had fun, but it was too easy to take/get beta etc...as I was seconding this pitch. Much better to just clip the nuts...pull the roof and make a belay at a stance a bit higher. Getting off the belay below the roof was clumsy and awkward and totally disrupted what would have been a pretty awesome sequence.

Most would also say that traversing the crumbling loose dark band on the exit pitch also sucks. The loose crap did suck, but the exposure and traverse with that much air below you made up for it.

I also thought the pitch above the roof was no gimmy and I'd rate it 5.10. Technical, thought provoking gear, and long.

There are ledges at the end of P1, P2, and P5 which make for great belay spots while gazing back on Chasm Lake and the Diamond.
By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Aug 23, 2009

I have to agree with the above comment regarding Red Wall being harder than Directissma. The two "10a" pitches seemed more technical and devious than anything on Directissma or, for that matter, Casual Route. Lotta fun, though.
By 303scott
Aug 22, 2011

I agree with Paul regarding stopping the crux pitch at the wires. You are right in the middle of some really nice movement and then you just stop and hang. Kind of a bummer, but I guess the rope drag around the roof would be intolerable. The "death flake" was about 6-8 inches thick (you can see the slings on it in one of the photos here), felt solid, and provided some interesting climbing.
Regarding the descent, we traversed straight LEFT after the 9+ pitch on some rather exposed ledges with a little bit of low 5th downclimbing. After two ropelenghts you are at the base of the Chasm View rappels and can easily traverse over to the Crack of Delight rappels from there. Don't know if it's faster than the descents described above, but it's an option.
By Tom Dickey
Aug 16, 2012

I left my helmet at the top of the route, right where you top out, in a crack. It's taken a big hit from a fall in the Fischer towers, so I don't know how good it still is, but I sure would like it back. If you recover it, please contact me. Thanks! Tom

I thought the route was pretty darn good. great position, reasonable nice rock until the traverse, but hey, it's alpine climbing....
By Mark Hudon
Sep 10, 2013

I certainly don't think the traverse under the roofs is .10a, it seems far more difficult than that. I'd call it easily .10c.
By Mark Oveson
From: Louisville, Colorado
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The death flake pitch is great. Best pitch on the climb.

To keep the crux pitch at 10a, you have to traverse under the roof and then climb *down* the ramp for a good 20 feet, make a big step across at a flake, and then climb back up to the belay.

The move around the roof at the start of P5 is hard, and the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.8-5.9. Not a lot of good rest options on this pitch.

A cool adventure climb but be ready for anything.