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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Red Tag Sale 
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Window Shopping 

Red Tag Sale 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 366
Submitted By: LeeAB on Nov 22, 2008
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Description 

Some sharp holds and big moves lead up to a left hand gaston jug at the second bolt. Easier climbing gains the mid-anchor. After the mid-anchor a couple of scary hollow underclings allow you to reach up either right or left to some edges, terrible feet through here, and eventually up to a sharp slot/pocket on a sloper. From here easier climbing on bigger holds with long moves takes you to the top of the wall.


Location 

Second route right of Window Shopping. Stars either off the top of the flake from where you can clip the first bolt or from lower between the flake and the wall at the top of a pillar/point feature.


Protection 

Bolts to a mid-anchor and bolts to a top anchor.



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2008

Doesn't seem like the pinch / undercling at the crux will be around much longer. I felt it flex as I moved past it and was afraid of ripping it off. This one will get alot harder once this goes.

By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Dec 21, 2008

fun with brief cruxes and easier climbing in the middle.

By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 31, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

I got on this thing for the first time about 15 years ago or so, and my guide book has an annotation on how loose, dangerous and crappy red tag is. I finally got back on it this year, and was surprised at how well it cleaned up. This is actually a very fun route now.