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Red Spot 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Frisby/Jaquot/Mathiesen '65
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,009
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Mar 7, 2007

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Looking down at Lake Maria from the top of the sec...

Description 

Start at the base of a prominent pillar (not the huge pillar that's visible from the road, but farther left of that) at the base of the The Diamond about 200 feet right of the south edge of the face. Climb the pillar and onto the face, eventually encountering an alcove. Either belay here (it's another 200 feet to the next belay) or continue on to a loose ledge. The next pitch climbs a thinly protected face to another loose ledge for a belay. Continue up, linking the path of least resistance to the distinctive diagonal ledge that cuts up and left across the entire face. From here, either follow the ledge up and left off of the face or continue up to Left Over (5.9+).

For both, continue up another 50 feet until you encounter a cave. Pass the cave and continue basically straight up until you encounter a half-inch steel cable. Belay here. From this belay, traverse into a large, slightly overhanging dihedral and climb it. This is poorly protected right off the belay, but small cams and long slings shouldn't leave you too bad off. Top out on easy (4th class) slabs. Find the Medicine Bow Peak trail and walk off to the south.

The entire climb has route-finding issues, so be ready to down climb. Also, most of the cracks are very tiny (knife-blades would probably work best) so most of the climbing is very run out. Fortunately, there is protection at the hard parts, even on the harder variation.

Location 

The Diamond Buttress dominates the Snowies skyline, and is most easily reached from the Lake Marie picnic area.

Protection 

Singles from yellow Alien to #2.5 Friend. Nuts. Lots of long slings.


Photos of Red Spot Slideshow Add Photo
The red line indicates our path on Leftover Direct, although it also shows the first half of any climb that goes to the Red Spot.  For other routes, follow the diagonal ledge from our third belay up and left off the face.
BETA PHOTO: The red line indicates our path on Leftover Direct...

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By Sylvia
Mar 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The cliff overlooks the Laramie Valley and has a great view of the lake below. The cliff itself is quartzite with sharp edges that make great hand and foot holds. Only open for a short window in the summer between snow. Avoid when wet or possible rain. An early start is recommended because the weather closes in around 2 or 3 in the afternoon. It can get cold up there so be prepared.