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Red Spire takes you along the upper part of the ridge to the far right of red slab. This is a great moderate alternative route for when the Red Slab route is crowded with climbers. Start the route by scrambling up a bit of 4th class to clip a bolt above your head. Make the crux move by bypassing a small roof by going to the right. A bit of moss here adds a little to the difficultly. Continue up the ridge on face holds past eight more bolts until you reach a great double chain belay anchor with a platform behind it.
This would not make a good top rope, but is a fine beginning lead.
Red Spire is located to the far right of the grassy area above Red Slab. Approach by following the base of Red Slab and then climbing the Ed and Terry approach route with the cable. Above the cable look up and to your right for a bolt above a blocky section that leads to the ridge.
Descent may be done by rapping with a 70M or walking off down the Scenic Turnout gully.
Nine bolts and double chain anchors. You may wish to anchor the belayer with gear if you are worried about the climbing before the first bolt. A slip before that bolt would send you and your partner on a long painful ride.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Jan 1, 2009
A bit weird. But I agree that it makes a good beginners lead. You finish at a tower like feature that you can't really see until you are there.