Red Rum SDS
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|Type: ||Boulder, Alpine, 16'|
|Consensus: || Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]|
|FA: ||Mike, Gallagher, Jordan Hill, John Gallagher|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||COEveryman on Jun 6, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Mike Gallagher on the SDS of "Red Rum." The botto...
|The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>|
Start down in the cave with two big crimps--the right one being the starting foothold for the stand start to this problem. From here make a huge left hand throw to a good sloper (this is the point where core keeps you from dabbing) and then move the right up (optional intermediate) to a sloper. From here move left to the two side by side, flat holds that are the start of the stand start to this problem and finish with that problem.
This problem would definitely garner another star if it weren't for the boulder behind you at the first move which makes dabbing a problem, but don't let this deter you as the movement is top notch and a great warm up for Pink Fink or Peasants into Leaders.
With some rock removal, a lower start even than this, would be possible.
Route is located 15 feet left of Pink Fink underneath the small roof on the corner of the boulder with another boulder behind you.
A pad on the boulder behind the problem, a pad on the ground and a spotter to the right of the climber is sufficient. It may appear that the boulder behind the problem is dangerous, but with a pad on that boulder the rightward movement of the climbing really removes any serious danger of falling back into that boulder.