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Red Rum SDS
V4 YDS 6B Font
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 16 ft (5 m) |
FA: | Mike, Gallagher, Jordan Hill, John Gallagher |
Page Views: | 751 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | COEveryman on Jun 6, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Most boulders are located within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the USFS. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace. Please abide by these requirements: it can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, & keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pads, etc.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
Start down in the cave with two big crimps--the right one being the starting foothold for the stand start to this problem. From here make a huge left hand throw to a good sloper (this is the point where core keeps you from dabbing) and then move the right up (optional intermediate) to a sloper. From here move left to the two side by side, flat holds that are the start of the stand start to this problem and finish with that problem.
This problem would definitely garner another star if it weren't for the boulder behind you at the first move which makes dabbing a problem, but don't let this deter you as the movement is top notch and a great warm up for Pink Fink or Peasants into Leaders.
With some rock removal, a lower start even than this, would be possible.
Location
Route is located 15 feet left of Pink Fink underneath the small roof on the corner of the boulder with another boulder behind you.
Protection
A pad on the boulder behind the problem, a pad on the ground and a spotter to the right of the climber is sufficient. It may appear that the boulder behind the problem is dangerous, but with a pad on that boulder the rightward movement of the climbing really removes any serious danger of falling back into that boulder.
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