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Black Rose
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Red Rose 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Red Rose route. The yellow route is the main line,...

Description 

This is a fun, easy little trad line that doesn't get done as much as it should. There's no real crux--just moderate climbing throughout.


Location 

This route is almost exactly between Black Rose and Red Slab (hence the name). It is directly underneath the Ska Block.

This actually might be the closest and easiest-to-get-to route in the canyon.


Protection 

Small nuts and cams (TCUs and C3s would work great). There are camouflaged tan chains on top that you can't see when you're under the route.

Getting on top to toprope the route or its variations is pretty easy. The easiest way is to climb to the base of the Ska Block via easy 4th class scrambling behind (east) of Red Rose. Alternatively, you can scramble up to the right of the route (between this route and Red Slab).



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Jul 30, 2008

Is there another 5.5 quartzite trad line in the canyon? Maybe (I can't think of one off the top of my head...), but it's probably not this good. Sure, it's not much when you compare it to a nice 5.11 limestone sport route, but for what it is, I think it's pretty darn good. Hence the 3 stars.

I'm not sure who did the FA of this route. As can be seen in the topo pic, there is an old, rusty quarter inch bolt 10 feet up and right of the anchors that I placed. It's fun to look at, but I wouldn't touch the thing. The route was a little dirty when I got on it. I cleaned it up a bit, but there are still slightly dirty spots. It'll clean up if it gets more ascents. Overall, the rock is pretty darn solid.

In addition to not knowing who did the FA, I don't know if this route has a name. Seeing as how it's right between Black Rose and Red Slab, I thought that Red Rose was a fitting name. If anyone knows the FA info or the real name, let me know.

I placed the anchors and then cleaned the route on rappel. I then soloed it, so don't take my gear list above as perfect. Most of the cracks are pretty darn thin (I don't think there's anything much bigger than finger size), but there are jugs everywhere.

By jared jaynes
Mar 16, 2012

This route is super fun to climb it was my first in the canyon and i solo it all the time...
the scramble to the east get a bit exposed at the top near the anchors so i carry a couple of draws to clip in early as i transition to the face to set up my gear. rock is very sold and great when i just want a quick climb and get second or thirds in for a work out...

for top rope there is a bit of rope drag but not bad, for solo i set up a sling just above the anchor for a back up... anchors are solid and chain are in great condition, i don't climb trad so no comment on gear

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