This area offers some of the best quality face climbing in the West End on highly featured Navajo sandstone. Most of the routes are bolted, single pitch affairs between 80-100 feet. There are also some great cracks and a few multi-pitch routes. It climbs a lot like Wall Street, but the rock is way better and more featured. The wall is South-facing, so the season is Fall through Spring. It is a great winter crag.
There are two approaches:
1) Turn right off Highway 90 0.2 miles west of mile marker 25. Follow the dirt road to a ravine crossing, then go up to a campground near some powerlines. A 4x4 is required. The trail heads up the creekbed to the left side of a tower, then directly up to the cliffband. 20 minutes.
2) Approach from EE22/Atomic Energy Crag. Follow powerlines south of the campground, when road ends, continue downhill to the cliffs. 25 minutes.
Full directions can be found in Fowler and Johnston's Wild Wild West.
Climb the steep slab on the right side of the Open Range Wall. It is 5.10 if you bail out right to the Cold Fusion anchor or 11+ if you do the extension through the roof. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The East Paradox Creek crossing, approach #1, is impassable from the heavy rains last fall. Five foot banks on both sides of the ravine now block the road. The road could be repaired but really it is unnecessary. Another approach is: heading west on Hwy 90, look for an unmarked ranch road about 200 yards past road EE 21. EE21 is on the left and the unmarked ranch road is on the right. Close the gate behind you. You will pass another gate or two on the way that need to be closed behind you. Take the most traveled road for about 2 or 3 beers until you come to the parking area. High clearance and occasional 4x4 is needed. This road takes one by many areas of archeological importance. Be aware that camps are not too close to them. Also fun to explore on the rest days.