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By Cory
From Boise, ID
Jan 9, 2009
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

Hi,

I'd like to take a trip to Red Rocks and climb a bunch of offwidth climbs to try and work on my technique. I seem to be able to find lists of offwidth routes for other areas, but not for Red Rocks. I'd mainly be interested in offwidth routes 5.9 and under (actually way under to start), although a list of higher grade routes would be cool too as this will give me something to aspire to. From the guidebook it looks like there is a good cluster of wide climbs in the Southern Outcrops area. What other wide climbs would you recommend?

Cheers,
Cory


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By Aaron S
Jan 9, 2009
Enjoying beautiful Red Rocks.

Chrysler Crack (5.9 3rd pullout) and Plumber's (V easy ,Kraft boulders) are easy and accessible. Cadillac, in Black Velvet, looks good though I haven't done it.

I've been wondering how gnarly Unfinished Symphony is. Would the 11+ pitch actually rated that if it were in, say, Yosemite?


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By Michael Sokoloff
From Spokane, WA
Jan 9, 2009

Ixtalan has an aesthetic and very memorable OW pitch. I remember it being mostly bolt-protected and did not require any big stuff.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Jan 9, 2009
Russ

Try these threads:

widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=88.0

widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=326.0

Brought to you by the lovely and talented folks at www.widefetish.com


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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 9, 2009
South of Windy Peak

The Misunderstanding, Black Velvet Canyon, 2 pitches, 5.9
Ragged Edges, Willow Springs, 2 pitches, 5.8
Black Track, Willow Springs, 1 pitch, 5.9


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By Cory
From Boise, ID
Jan 10, 2009
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

This looks like plenty to keep me busy, thanks! Chrysler Crack looks Awesome!!!


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Jan 10, 2009
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

Aaron S wrote:
I've been wondering how gnarly Unfinished Symphony is. Would the 11+ pitch actually rated that if it were in, say, Yosemite?



It looks weird. I'm not sure if you can climb it like an OW or not.

I took a good look at it while rappelling off La Cierta Edad...which has a really good OW pitch on it....the crack is bottomed and flares inward. Plus its very steep.

Definetly on my tick list.

Also look at Burlesque...which is the rap route off of Frigid air. There is a really cool chimney
/squeeze flake thing on it.
www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/icebox_canyon/1058>>>

Kick in the balls is wide and 5.8....but takes some doing to get too and too get off....
www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/first_creek_canyon>>>

josh


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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 10, 2009
South of Windy Peak

Frigid Air Buttress has a nice offwidth pitch.


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By Dustin B
From Steamboat
Jan 10, 2009
It's always a party.

These are more chimneys than pure OW, but they are in the .9 range.
community pillar
lady wilson's cleavage

one of my first multipitch climbs was called group therapy 5.7+ on angel food wall and there was some wide on that.


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By Zappatista
Jan 11, 2009
Book me, officer.

I would say a nice afternoon might be rocking Atman, Yin and Yang, and the "5.9" offwidth on the other side of the Zoroaster chimney. Classic splitters, short, nice views, the 'width is the easiest of the three, and then you've got the stroll down the hill to lead to Sunny and Steep, which has the Sport Chimney, which if you're new to wide might be just your ticket in the midst of the rest of the chalky steepness.

If you're looking for pure offwidth, not too much around here relative to the amount of rock. Lots of face holds contribute to the ease of the routes around here for the most part, and the offwidths that you find in the 7-9 range will involve lots of actual holds, unlike their purer brethren, typically found elsewhere.

PM me if you're in town and want to knock out some crack mileage. I'm always up for as much as I can get.


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By Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Jan 11, 2009
mmmm....tree

Michael Solokoff wrote of Ixtlan; I second that. At 11a it's pretty burly. I followed the local hotshot Alison Sheets on it; it was good that she led, 'cause I thrashed like a gumby. It was well protected with bolts by the Uriostes, hopefully those bolts have been updated. I remember this from 1984, so it must have been good.


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By Luke to Zuke
From Anchorage
Jan 12, 2009
Middle Troll

wat about black widow hollow


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By Cory
From Boise, ID
Jan 12, 2009
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

Thanks for all the good suggestions! This should keep me busy for awhile.


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By rockratrei
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 13, 2009
rockratrei

Shortcake & The Little Engine 5.6 - Chocolate Rx
Zacker Cracker 5.8 - Chocolate Rx
Peanut Butter & Jam 5.9 - Chocolate Rx
Who Deanny 5.8 - Illusion Crag
Crack of Infernity 5.8+ upper tier of Lost Creek
The Triad - Oak Creek
The Fox 5.10 up past Physical Graffiti


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By Karsten
From Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013
FA's can be scary.  Photo by DeAngelo

Not in the guide

Heard this one got sent. A tube chock with an STP sticker was way up in this thing. I found a JS (Jay Smith?) carabiner hanging from it. Later Ben Williams scooped me and got the FA. The chock is now in desert rock sports. I think this thing is probably 5.11 and found up in Juniper canyon.

A Jay Smith STP chock???  Cool none-the-less.
A Jay Smith STP chock??? Cool none-the-less.


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By slim
Administrator
Feb 25, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

i also thought ixtalan (3rd pitch) was one of the better OW's there. it is bolted, but i think the bolts might be kind of old.


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Feb 25, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011

slim wrote:
i also thought ixtalan (3rd pitch) was one of the better OW's there. it is bolted, but i think the bolts might be kind of old.


With modern C4 6's, you don't need big bros or the bolts. The hangers and bolts are not worthy of being clipped in my opinion. I climbed the route in February last year. Does not need to be, nor should it be retrobolted...just remove the bolts. Joanne, Jorge and Spiderman Dan did not have access to cams that large in '81. Definitely one of if not the best off-width at RR.

Ixtlan


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