This crag offers a whole bunch of moderate routes. The quartzite is a bit weathered, but the climbing is fun, the approach is easy, and everything can be toproped or lead. The routes range from easy 5.6 to 5.10a. All of the routes are bolted with nice new hardware. Each route is labeled with name and rating.
This is a great place to take beginners or just to get a few good afternoon climbs in close to the south end of the valley.
I had heard, and judging by the names of the routes, that the climbs on this crag have been put up by a dentist. If you live in the south end of the valley don't miss climbing on this wall.
This crag is across from, and slightly to the west of, the South Mountain Golf Course club house. The address to the golf course is 1247 Mike Weir Drive, Draper, UT, 84020.
Take either the I-15 to the Draper Bluffdale exit, or take 1300 East under the bridge to Highland Drive. Turn South on Mike Weir Drive following the signs to the golf course. You will want to take the west exit out of the round about. You will see the rock on up on the hill. There is a dirt parking lot on the south side of the road with a sign for Red Rock. This parking lot has a trail that will take you up to the Bonneville Shoreline trail.
Take the trail west for less and an 1/8th of a mile, until you see a Red Rock trail head sign on your left. Take this trail another 500 feet up to the rock.
This problem starts on the east face of the boulder, it climbs right of the deep crack that also serves as the downclimb. Watch of for loose rock, but the main hand holds are bomber. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
This is a worthwhile chunk of rock, the approach is only 5 minutes from the car, and there are at least 10 different sport routes, all of which can be TR'd. The quality of the rock is about the same as sport utility rock, but a little sharper. The dentist who developed the rock frequents the area a lot, he actually put in stairs(4x4's and rebar) to the top of the climb to protect your ass from the slide/scramble. There are at least 3-5.6's, 2-5.7's a 5.8 2-5.10a's and a pumpy 5.10d. Have fun and enjoy the view......... all the climbs have plaques with the name and rating of the climbs.
The Dentist needs some kudos! I want to even use his stair building ideas in my back yard! Some of the bolts do seem out in nowhere and in odd places, especially if it was tr'ed first and I assume he practiced where the best clips would be...but north facing and really a pretty cool little area. The 5.10d pitch sure seemed like 5.11hard. The Dentist sure did some drilling on that chunk of rock. Also, in a very Euro sort of way, he labeled the routes with a very aesthetic sign for the visitor...and why not? I am sure some Utahns will rise against in horror, but I loved it!
Great little climbing area. Definitely falls into the category of Suburban Cragging, with a golf course within earshot of the climbs. That said, the routes are quality for their mix of grades and should clean up nice with a little more use.
Big direction note: The cliff can be a little hard to see when you're heading towards it, so here's my hint - Get off on Bangerter as suggested (on the Red Rock climbs page) and follow that road through the intersection with the Chevron. At this point, Bangerter becomes Traverse Ridge Road. Follow this for 1.3 miles and take a left turn onto Mike Wier Drive. Just a little way down Mike Wier Drive is the parking lot on your right.
1. All of the bolts were placed on rappel and don't seem to have any regard for clipping stance etc. Not a big deal since none of the leads are very hard, but just an idea for next time.
2. The nameplates are stolen by teenage vandals and scouts. Climbers who care about "pure" climbing and the like rarely frequent this area.
3. Whoever keeps putting up signs on metal fenceposts at the bottom of the climb, please don't. While we all hope to never take a ground fall, one of those signs would certainly make the fall fatal, and I don't imagine being impaled would be a good way to go.
All in all, it's a good place to take your scouts and your girlfriends. Don't expect too much and you won't be disappointed.
Decided to check this place out, the climbs we did caused a ton of rope drag but there may be a couple that aren't too bad. Lot of loose rocks at the top you can kick down. Well documented routes with plaques. Also expect someone to bug you about giving money to scouts. We got there and an older gentleman told us scouts used their own money to put these routes up and that if the scouts ask us for a donation that we should give it to them. There are pluses and minuses to this wall.
The bad: To close to the city, hot in the summer, no outdoor feel cause the city is right there, too many little kids around with their parents. People expecting you to pay for the scouts' work. Extreme Rope drag. Hot.
The good: Close by, could be good for early spring climbing.