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Red Rock Obscurities 5.7-5.9
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By Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Oct 19, 2012

Looking for some lesser known moderates that are worth doing...i.e. stuff not in the graded list of trad routes in the back of Handren's guidebook.

Thinking about Sunburn, Sunspot Ridge, Sweet Thin. Thoughts on these? Any others?


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Oct 19, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

Sweet Thin is worthwhile. As well as Requiem for a Tad Pole right next to it. And Bird Hunter Buttress across the way.

Sunspot Ridge not so much but Frieda's Flake is.

Middle Earth is worth doing.

Pink Tornado Left

Voodoo Doll

Drunken Frog


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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 19, 2012
South of Windy Peak

Oops, Dow beat me to a couple but here's my list of lesser done moderate routes that I've climbed. They're not all classics, but they are all good and rarely crowded.

Sandstone Quarry
Chrysler Crack - 5.9
Nevada Book - 5.8

White Rock
Stilgar's Wild Ride - 5.8
Healy's Haunted House - 5.7
Intestinal Flu - 5.8
The Ledger - 5.7

Willow Springs
Nadia's Nine - 5.9
Pillar Talk - 5.7
Sleeper - 5.9
Little Big Horn - 5.9+
Hard Case - 5.9
Soylent Greenjeans - 5.9+
Peaches - 5.9 variant
Karate Crack - 5.9+

Icebox Canyon
NE Arete of Bridge Mountain - 5.6
Atras - 5.8
Burlesque - 5.8
Lebanese Jojo - 5.9
Good Time Charlie - 5.8

Pine Creek
Honeycomb Chimney - 5.9
Small Purchase 5.10a
Crabby Appleton - 5.9
Cat in the Hat summit route - 5.7
Pauligk Pillar - 5.8
When a Stranger Calls - 5.8
Dark Shadows summit route - 5.8+
Chasing Shadows - 5.8+
Peyote Power - 5.9
Rawlpindi - 5.8
The Big Horn - 5.8
Flight Path - 5.8

Juniper Canyon
Spare Rib - 5.8
Test Tube - 5.9
Birdhunter Buttress - 5.9 - needs more rebolting on upper half
Cat Scratch Fever - 5.8
Hourglass Diversion - 5.9
Requiem for a Tadpole - 5.9+
Sweet Crude - 5.9
Rose Hips - 5.7

Oak Creek
Rainbow Buttress - 5.8
Sunspot Ridge - 5.8
Heliotrope - 5.8
Sandstone Overcast - 5.8 C1
Horndog to Sundog - 5.9 or 5.10a

Mt. Wilson
Pink Tornado Left - 5.9

First Creek
Mudterm - 5.9
Trihardral - 5.8
Friendship Route - 5.9
Pinball Crack - 5.9+

Black Velvet
Overhanging Hangover - 5.10a
Arrow Place - 5.9

Mud Springs
Chuckawalla 21 - 5.9

Windy Peak
Hot Fudge Thursday - 5.9
Diet Delight - 5.8

Southern Outcrops
Peanut Butter and Jam - 5.9
Arm Forces - 5.9 - classic
Slight of Hand - 5.9


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By brat
From Dolores, CO
Oct 19, 2012
Celebrating on Intersection Rock, JTree.

Hot Flash.


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Oct 19, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

Tom Fralich wrote:
...i.e. stuff not in the graded list of trad routes in the back of Handren's guidebook.


For those not familiar with this list, it is in the back of your Handren guide and would include many of the ones just listed. Don't want anyone to have the impression the ones I listed above are the better 5.7-5.9 routes per se, rather the best of the ones not already marked up by Handren as being so.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Dark Shadows to the summit? You won't see others after a few pitches.


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By Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Oct 20, 2012

Dow Williams wrote:


Hey Dow, I looked at your page for Middle Earth in the past and was scared off by the "heavy climbers would be best advised to avoid the route." I've done Frieda's Flake, definitely a good one.


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By Sherri Lewis
From Sequim, WA
Oct 21, 2012
Pausing to pose with the amazing cracks there.

Another vote for Cat Scratch Fever on Brownstone Wall. I was surprised that one didn't get a star in the book. Fun moderate.


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By rockratrei
Oct 23, 2012
rockratrei

Marions Melody 5.9
Joanne of Arch 5.9
Great Expectations 5.9


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By coppolillo
Oct 23, 2012

Refried Brains until the bolted anchors end, on BVW...quality climbing. Chasing Shadows to Dark Shadows over the top of Mescalito pretty great....

Was just out in RR...and now home...already missing it! Go huge and enjoy!

Rob


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By rpc
Oct 23, 2012

taking notes here - sound like great ideas...one very minor point:

"Burlesque - 5.8"

At 6'6" & never mind how many lbs...I found the crux to be a little harder - somewhere between 5.12 not doable.


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By Lacie
Oct 23, 2012

Lean Lady in White Rock
La Cierta Edad in Ice Box (didn't find this to be harder than 10a, seems to be consensus that it's not 10d)

2 of my favorites in the park.

I second Hot Flash, but really what I really love is that you can start anywhere that suits your fancy on those slabs and have a long cruiser day.


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Oct 24, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

rpc wrote:
taking notes here - sound like great ideas...one very minor point: "Burlesque - 5.8" At 6'6" & never mind how many lbs...I found the crux to be a little harder - somewhere between 5.12 not doable.


Radek, just got back from Oak Creek Spire today in Sedona(on your beta) ...awesome jump and route in general...my mistake? doing Big Country Spire after....approach and deproach ripped our clothes to shreads...this cat claw shit is serious biz...prob 2nd, 3rd or 4th ascent....chossy pile....think Bloom is letting the FAers decide how many stars to attribute a route in this new book! Thanks again for the help man!


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By rpc
Oct 25, 2012

Dow, glad to hear you enjoyed Oak. cheers!


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