Red Rock Obscurities 5.7-5.9

Looking for some lesser known moderates that are worth doing...i.e. stuff not in the graded list of trad routes in the back of Handren's guidebook.

Thinking about Sunburn, Sunspot Ridge, Sweet Thin. Thoughts on these? Any others?

Sweet Thin is worthwhile. As well as Requiem for a Tad Pole right next to it. And Bird Hunter Buttress across the way.

Sunspot Ridge not so much but Frieda's Flake is.

Middle Earth is worth doing.

Pink Tornado Left

Voodoo Doll

Drunken Frog

Oops, Dow beat me to a couple but here's my list of lesser done moderate routes that I've climbed. They're not all classics, but they are all good and rarely crowded.

Sandstone Quarry
Chrysler Crack - 5.9
Nevada Book - 5.8

White Rock
Stilgar's Wild Ride - 5.8
Healy's Haunted House - 5.7
Intestinal Flu - 5.8
The Ledger - 5.7

Willow Springs
Nadia's Nine - 5.9
Pillar Talk - 5.7
Sleeper - 5.9
Little Big Horn - 5.9+
Hard Case - 5.9
Soylent Greenjeans - 5.9+
Peaches - 5.9 variant
Karate Crack - 5.9+

Icebox Canyon
NE Arete of Bridge Mountain - 5.6
Atras - 5.8
Burlesque - 5.8
Lebanese Jojo - 5.9
Good Time Charlie - 5.8

Pine Creek
Honeycomb Chimney - 5.9
Small Purchase 5.10a
Crabby Appleton - 5.9
Cat in the Hat summit route - 5.7
Pauligk Pillar - 5.8
When a Stranger Calls - 5.8
Dark Shadows summit route - 5.8+
Chasing Shadows - 5.8+
Peyote Power - 5.9
Rawlpindi - 5.8
The Big Horn - 5.8
Flight Path - 5.8

Juniper Canyon
Spare Rib - 5.8
Test Tube - 5.9
Birdhunter Buttress - 5.9 - needs more rebolting on upper half
Cat Scratch Fever - 5.8
Hourglass Diversion - 5.9
Requiem for a Tadpole - 5.9+
Sweet Crude - 5.9
Rose Hips - 5.7

Oak Creek
Rainbow Buttress - 5.8
Sunspot Ridge - 5.8
Heliotrope - 5.8
Sandstone Overcast - 5.8 C1
Horndog to Sundog - 5.9 or 5.10a

Mt. Wilson
Pink Tornado Left - 5.9

First Creek
Mudterm - 5.9
Trihardral - 5.8
Friendship Route - 5.9
Pinball Crack - 5.9+

Black Velvet
Overhanging Hangover - 5.10a
Arrow Place - 5.9

Mud Springs
Chuckawalla 21 - 5.9

Windy Peak
Hot Fudge Thursday - 5.9
Diet Delight - 5.8

Southern Outcrops
Peanut Butter and Jam - 5.9
Arm Forces - 5.9 - classic
Slight of Hand - 5.9

Hot Flash.

Tom Fralich wrote:...i.e. stuff not in the graded list of trad routes in the back of Handren's guidebook.

For those not familiar with this list, it is in the back of your Handren guide and would include many of the ones just listed. Don't want anyone to have the impression the ones I listed above are the better 5.7-5.9 routes per se, rather the best of the ones not already marked up by Handren as being so.

Dark Shadows to the summit? You won't see others after a few pitches.

Dow Williams wrote:Sweet Thin is worthwhile. As well as Requiem for a Tad Pole right next to it. And Bird Hunter Buttress across the way. Sunspot Ridge not so much but Frieda's Flake is. Middle Earth is worth doing. Pink Tornado Left Voodoo Doll Drunken Frog

Hey Dow, I looked at your page for Middle Earth in the past and was scared off by the "heavy climbers would be best advised to avoid the route." I've done Frieda's Flake, definitely a good one.

Another vote for Cat Scratch Fever on Brownstone Wall. I was surprised that one didn't get a star in the book. Fun moderate.

Marions Melody 5.9
Joanne of Arch 5.9
Great Expectations 5.9

Refried Brains until the bolted anchors end, on BVW...quality climbing. Chasing Shadows to Dark Shadows over the top of Mescalito pretty great....

Was just out in RR...and now home...already missing it! Go huge and enjoy!

Rob

taking notes here - sound like great ideas...one very minor point:

"Burlesque - 5.8"

At 6'6" & never mind how many lbs...I found the crux to be a little harder - somewhere between 5.12 not doable.

rpc wrote:taking notes here - sound like great ideas...one very minor point: "Burlesque - 5.8" At 6'6" & never mind how many lbs...I found the crux to be a little harder - somewhere between 5.12 not doable.

Radek, just got back from Oak Creek Spire today in Sedona(on your beta) ...awesome jump and route in general...my mistake? doing Big Country Spire after....approach and deproach ripped our clothes to shreads...this cat claw shit is serious biz...prob 2nd, 3rd or 4th ascent....chossy pile....think Bloom is letting the FAers decide how many stars to attribute a route in this new book! Thanks again for the help man!

Dow, glad to hear you enjoyed Oak. cheers!