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 ADVANCED
Frog Prince
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Man's Bluff S 
Children of the Mojave S 
Dairy Queen S 
Dark Passage S 
Freddie Prince Jr S 
Frog Prince (AKA Babies) S 
Gollum S 
Raven, The S 
Red Queen S 
Through the Looking Glass S 
Unknown FP 1 S 
Unknown FP 2 S 
White Knight S 
White Queen S 
Worrier or the Warrior, The S 
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 

Red Queen 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel, 1992
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 905
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 1, 2007

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Description 

This was the second route up the main overhang of the Frog Prince Buttress, but has more or less been lost to history as a variation, as Through the Looking Glass and White Queen were added. (It's incorrectly listed as a variation to White Queen in Dennis Jackson's guidebook.)

Begin about 10 feet right of Babies (aka Frog Prince) up on the ledge. Boulder past the first two bolts on flatter pockets, then big moves to more incut lips, trending right along the arc of the overhang. Where Through the Looking Glass goes straight up, you move right again to the lip crux of White Queen.

The Socorro Boys (Dylan and Jake) said we were on crack for climbing the "Mud Wall" -- we probably were, but it turned into a good route once it cleaned up. I've heard rumors of pockets at the lip crux being enhanced since the FA -- not sure, don't care, whatever.


Location 

Center of the south-facing, overhanging central wall on the Frog Prince Buttress.


Protection 

6 or 7 draws, and two draws for the anchors.



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 1, 2007

I heard the same rumor of post-FA chipping, but I heard it from Alf, so take it with a grain of salt.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 1, 2007

That's sort of what I was thinking. Did he say it as an accusation, or an admission? But he was packing heat, so I didn't press the issue.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 1, 2007

More Alf trivia; According to Alf, Goliath wouldn't go until it was chipped as well.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 15, 2008

Chipping or not this is the better more continuos of the two satandard Queen lines. There are actually others as well starting further left on Babie or even Gollum, one of which is named Dairy Queen and at this point they probably are really 5.13+.