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 ADVANCED
The Fin
Select Route:
Big Corner T 
Lost in Space T 
Mars Attacks T,S 
Red Planet T 
Spaceballs T 

Red Planet 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: John Mattson
Page Views: 4,084
Submitted By: misterclimberman on Apr 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Red Planet 4/2010

Description 

Climb the first pitch of the Big Corner. Belay from ledge for the obvious steep, splitter stacking crack off to left. Hardest trad pitch in the area. 2 ascents.

Location 

Right of the popular Mars Attacks. Starts as for the route Big Corner, but peels off left after the first pitch. Obvious overhanging fingercrack on the wall left of the Big Corner.

Protection 

A bunch of .75s, .5s and some other varied gear. More info will come as soon as I get on it.


Photos of Red Planet Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff Snyder on an attempt
Jeff Snyder on an attempt
and a few moves later, which is just the start of ...
and a few moves later, which is just the start of ...

Comments on Red Planet Add Comment
Show which comments
By misterclimberman
Apr 28, 2006

here is some added rack beta. my friend was just on it, so i still have no certainty of the size, its just heresay. i will give in depth rack beta as soon as i get on it. the most important thing is the 1-1.5 (.5-.75 camalot) inch pieces. more notably, several in-between that size is useful, and helps with confidence inspiration. I believe a gold alien would be a very helpful size.
By Braxtron
From: ...
May 11, 2008

What are the ratings for each pitch?
By Chris Tatum
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2008

First pitch is 5.8 or so... kind of chossy but short. Pitch two is the business.
By bjglenn
Mar 27, 2010

Was climbing Mars Attacks yesterday (3.26.10) and watched a guy just finishing Red Planet as we were rappeling. Thought I would add a comment as I'm guessing this route is rarely completed (possibly 4 assents now???).
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Mar 29, 2010

More than that,

after the first ascent by John Matteson, ATLEAST Kyle, PeeWee, Ben, Nick, and those are the people I know of (or atleast heard of second hand) and I expect there are probably several/many more. Its a hard route but very doable.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 18, 2010

Ok now its

1)John Mattson
2)Peewee Oullett
3)Nick Berry
4)Kyle Edmonson(fall 2009)
5)Ben Williams (spring 2010)
6)Matt Swartz (Spring 2010)
7)Alex Honnold (summer 2010)(onsight: based on second hand sources so it could be wrong)
8) Jeff Snyder (Oct 2011)

I think I got the order right. Hell, with all the traffic it's seeing, it saw 4 ascents in it's first 11 years, but it may see 4 ascents this year.

Note: the first pitch continues to get clearer/worse. Jeff dislodged the huge flake before the roof one the first pitch (which was ineviditable) and I kicked loose a huge flake before that

As for gear,

0 BD C3 (blue aliens) to 2 (yellow) BD C4. Multiples of 0.5 and 0.75 for the crux, 0.4 and 0.3 for before and after the crux only 1 1.0 or 2.0 BD C4 (you can carry both or just one of the 1 and 2). 3 quickdraws for the traverse (now the flake has partially fallen off) and 1 quickdraw for up higher.
By Matt S
Apr 21, 2010

dear tdog- those were my ticks and i know of 2 other climbers using them. and they WILL be washed off when they're done with the climb. tick marks are gross, ill admit that. when i started with that climb i had to wash off other ticks from previous climber and that sucked. if you haven't been on this climb then you wouldn't understand why i needed them. more off, if they pissed you off enough to take a picture of them after rapping off mars attacks why weren't you the bigger person and clean the off yourself instead of posting on some climbing sight ? i see ticks marks everywhere i go, 9 times out of 10 ill clean them off with out whining.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Nov 1, 2010

Gear list is

Green BD C3 to Green 0.75 with a yellow #2 C4 or Red #1 C4 (they protect the same section).

3-4 0.75 C4's
2-3 0.5 C4's
2-3 0.4 C4's
2 0.3 C4
2-3 BD 1 C3 (or 0.2C4)
yellow/red C4
4 draws for the route and then 2 for the anchor draws

or atleast that is what I use