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Lizard Head Wall
Routes Sorted
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Another Day At The Office T 
Blue Collar Crack T 
Cashmere Crack T 
Delicacy T 
Drama 
Errant Edge T 
King Lizard T 
Manager's Special T 
Maverick Line T,TR 
Part Time Crack T 
Red Neck Slab T 
Squeeze My Lemon T 
Unknown Slab T 
Unknown Slab/Crack T 
Wings of Perception T 
Zesty T 
Zigzag T 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Neck Slab 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Gregg Kirchhoff, Tyler Phillips, 4/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,231
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Red Neck Slab

Description 

This exciting slab continues left from the anchors of Blue Collar Crack. Ascend over a small bulge, gain a stance and begin to climb right and up a seam using large cracks and jams. Continue up and right towards chicken heads to gain the first bolt. Make another good move or two past another bolt to the crux. Clip a bolt and get busy.

Drilled on lead by a few very tall climbers, don't hate us cause we're beautiful.

Location 

This clean, thin slab continues left from the anchors of Blue Collar Crack It climbs past a few gear placements and three bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Protection 

Three draws, a few large cams and slings. (bd #3, #4 and a #13 stopper for the start are helpful)


Photos of Red Neck Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Red Neck Slab
BETA PHOTO: Red Neck Slab

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By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2008

Although this route was stance drilled you are never more than an arms length or two from a bolt or piece of gear when you have a hard move to do. Put up on a freezing cold, windy day. Much scrubbing revealed a nice slab with cool red varnish. Climbing rice with a drill sucks so we corrected the situation.
By James Garrett
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

after doing this pitch some weeks ago, I thought this was the second pitch of one of the other climbs. Is this incorrect? Does every pitch constitute a different route? Is this the latest trend?....to make separate routes rather than one multi-pitch route? Just wondering being a data freak and all.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Jul 1, 2008

james, most of us just fly to the begining of this climb making it it's own separate entity.

i can understand your confusion. blue collar crack's 2nd pitch continues through a hand crack system right of its initial anchors.(shaded area-bottom right in picture)
the red neck slab seed was planted after coming up and down blue collar ogling the slab to the left.
red neck slab breaks left from the anchors and up to a stance.
blue collars 2nd pitch is more continuous and follows the more obvious line. (at least obvious to us)
i think the nature of the climbing, for example, the ledges and various branches of direction constitute the need for different routes.

red neck slab is to blue collar crack what betty's 3d is to betty's altered elbow.
its not the latest trend, at least not for me. i'm definately not that cool.
i hope that clears things up a bit.
By James Garrett
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fair enough.....Thanks for the clarification...as I didn't see the red slab post before and I climbed it as the second pitch of something else....guess one may kind of climb anywhere up there, Strong work on the clean up, I just don't have the tenacity for it like you guys...but I appreciate it!
By tenesmus
Jul 1, 2008

Valid point. If the author of those other routes were known we would probably have named it in association with those other slabs. I think if you climbed that unknown .10+ into Redneck it would be a nice, second pitch to it. I can see how it would be confusing - it was to us as we were trying to sort out the existing lines and the continuity of the crack systems.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Actually I believe S. Gileadi climbed a new and independent line that deserves an entry on its own... More on that later :)
Gear recommendation was dead on, I placed all three pieces to get to the bolt. The crux is getting to the 2nd bolt, nice moves on slightly gritty rock that should clean up with traffic. Too bad it's not longer.
We rapped to the anchor of Zesty then to the ground with a 70m
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 1, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Easier than Errant Edge. We climbed Zesty and passed the anchors up top and continued to the anchors above blue collar crack. We then climbed this as our second pitch.
By zoso
Jun 1, 2012

You mean 1st pitch of Blue Collar, yes?
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Yes, the anchors of the first pitch. And apparently we did a slight variation of this climb as we continued for about 15 feet up the second pitch of blue collar and made a cool mantle with good chicken heads up to the first bolt, all given that the image of this climb is the correct route direction.