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Routes in Lankin Dome
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Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Crevasse Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mercury Rising T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Greg Collins, Sue Miller 1999 |
| Page Views: | 2,828 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | bob branscomb on Mar 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Access Issue: Close gates after passing through
Details
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
Description
This is a stellar route, perhaps one of the top three routes in this entire range. At the start of the first pitch of the Tree Route, look on the right wall for a shallow corner with a bolt at its top. Go to the bolt, jog right then up the beautiful wall past many bolts on fantastic crimps of all sizes. Several 11a and 11b sections here, the hardest making a thin move to a wonderful juggy edge. Go over a roof (#3 Camelot here) and past some bolts to the three bolt anchor on a narrow ledge. The second pitch goes up, then left to a bolt. A wild mantel over the overhang leads to a line of bolts going left. Off the last bolt is the 11c crux, one or two very thin crimpy moves to a sinker hand jam above. Yard into this crack system and follow that until it fades, then head up to the huge ledge at the top.
Location
This is on the beautiful face right of the Tree Route. Scramble up the first class 4 crack system to the very beginning of the Tree Route. Red Nations starts up the shallow corner just right of the base of the Tree Route first pitch. Follow the bolts, for the most part.
Protection
Rack of stoppers, set of Camelots to #3. Save the #3 Camelot for the slot in the roof on the first pitch. Mostly bolt protection, take lots of quicks and a half dozen single length runners for the second pitch. Descend by the Cowboy Route or find the Fixx ring rappel anchors on the edge of the big ledge at the top. These will be to the east of the second belay. The first rappel is not plumb with the anchor below. As you descend, the next anchor will be to your right: a small pendulum is necessary to reach it.
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