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Dome Rock
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Anti-Jello Crack T 
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Just Barely T,S 
Last Dihedral, The T 
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Red Mushrooms T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Red Mushrooms 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richardson, Leversee, Thompson, Row (1979)
Page Views: 1,479
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Romain Wacziarg, past the crux and cruising, on Re...


P1: A true sport route (as long as you don't expect solid, modern bolts). 7 bolts to a ledge with rappel anchors (for those wishing to retreat) OR 9 bolts to the original P1 belay. The crux is reaching the first bolt (10+). There are a few 5.10 moves to the second bolt, then the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.9+ climbing on delicate smears with the occasional thin edge. Sport climbers who plan to lower from the first anchor should consider top roping the left-hand variation past three bolts and a shallow crack (5.10c R/X) and "the Good Samaritan" (5.11+ PG13), a breath-taking exercise in friction on the right-hand side.

P2: From the higher anchor, P2 sets off through a series of small roofs (5.7, protected by three bolts, no gear) This section is not a sport route and feels significantly runout. Next, a large roof (small to medium gear) is encountered. Belay just above the roof from two bolts.

P3: Long, runout slab climbing leads to the top.


This route is the obvious line of bolts and conspicuous series of roofs just to the right of "the Last Dihedral," a massive right-facing corner on the far south side of Dome Rock.


Standard rack, 7-10 quickdraws.

The first two bolts are 3/8" Rawls. Bolts 3-6 are 5/16" button-head compression bolts. The 7th bolt is a 1/4" buttonhead (luckily the climbing at this point is easy).

Photos of Red Mushrooms Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My pal Betsy at the base of Red Mushrooms.  We ski...
My pal Betsy at the base of Red Mushrooms. We ski...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of "Red Mushrooms" (climber...
Another view of "Red Mushrooms" (climber...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the...
Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: After having lead Red Mushrooms, Doug Steigerwald ...
BETA PHOTO: After having lead Red Mushrooms, Doug Steigerwald ...

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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 24, 2006

According to the Mosher/Vernon/Paul guidebook, the first pitch originally sported just 6 bolts. Three newer bolts fill in the gaps, making the route one of the most tightly bolted on the Dome. A lower P1 anchor was also added more recently. Sport climbers should not continue to the original, higher anchor unless carrying 2 ropes.
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 24, 2008

Climbing past the first two bolts on this route is feeling harder than ever. I climbed this route the other day and the holds seemed weathered. I actually would have said 5.10d or 11a. The remainder of the route still felt like sustained 9+.

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