Red Mushrooms  5.10c PG13

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  Richardson, Leversee, Thompson, Row (1979) Submitted By:  Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the...

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Description 

P1: A true sport route (as long as you don't expect solid, modern bolts). 7 bolts to a ledge with rappel anchors (for those wishing to retreat) OR 9 bolts to the original P1 belay. The crux is reaching the first bolt (10+). There are a few 5.10 moves to the second bolt, then the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.9+ climbing on delicate smears with the occasional thin edge. Sport climbers who plan to lower from the first anchor should consider top roping the left-hand variation past three bolts and a shallow crack (5.10c R/X) and "the Good Samaritan" (5.11+ PG13), a breath-taking exercise in friction on the right-hand side.

P2: From the higher anchor, P2 sets off through a series of small roofs (5.7, protected by three bolts, no gear) This section is not a sport route and feels significantly runout. Next, a large roof (small to medium gear) is encountered. Belay just above the roof from two bolts.

P3: Long, runout slab climbing leads to the top.

Location 

This route is the obvious line of bolts and conspicuous series of roofs just to the right of "the Last Dihedral," a massive right-facing corner on the far south side of Dome Rock.

Protection 

Standard rack, 7-10 quickdraws.

The first two bolts are 3/8" Rawls. Bolts 3-6 are 5/16" button-head compression bolts. The 7th bolt is a 1/4" buttonhead (luckily the climbing at this point is easy).

Photos of Red Mushrooms Slideshow

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Another view of "Red Mushrooms" (climber: Nate Con...	Romain Wacziarg, past the crux and cruising, on Re...	My pal Betsy at the base of Red Mushrooms. We ski...