Red Limit 

My friend and her partner tried leading this one today thinking it was a 5.9. I ended up getting to the anchors by leading Tales of Power. Since we had a toprope setup, we figured "What the hell. Let's try it."What a tough but wonderful climb. Balance is needed in spots and strength in others. The tips liebacking and thin face sequences rocked. They could have only been better if the climb had been attempted more often, because a number of thin edges crumbled away as we tried to find footholds. Regardless, it was a fun one. I didn't climb it cleanly, but whoever does deserves a nice cold beer, and I'd be happy to buy.

Red Limit is an excellent route, blending powerful moves into a delicate topout. I free climbed it on 7/6/06 at 12d. Mine is likely the first free ascent, though I can't be sure. A bit of brushing was required to reveal the micro edges that would stay put, but it is now quite clean and highly recommended. Great effort to Richard and Jessica for finding and bolting the line.

This climb demands respect. Red Limit will reward technique and tension more so than finger strength. The lieback is the "easy part", though I found it scary to power lieback left on lead with the bolts to your right. Once you get to the mini-roof, it's all about bad feet and tension. Good beta will get you through the moves at around .12d. Be carefully up top above the crux as .11+ slab climbing awaits you. Excellent route.

Just sent today! Now where's my beer...?