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North Wall
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Liposuction Massacre S 
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Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) S 
Or Dare S 
Power House S 
Red Licorice S 
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Unknown 3 S 

Red Licorice 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 521
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Sep 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Start up and pull the difficult powerful crux to the first bolt. Relax on the sloper jug and continue up making a few more tricky moves past the second bolt to the third. Rest on the cool undercling and head to the anchors. The 4th bolt isn't visible until you're right on it.

This one is quite solid at the grade. The boulder problem start felt more difficult than V2.


Location 

Between Fatty and Bashart. Look for well chalked climb that doesn't start next to a crack.


Protection 

5 Bolts + Anchors, Stickclip optional



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By jbak
Apr 11, 2008

This route would be improved with an additional bolt to protect the bouldery start. Yes, you can stick-clip, but that means you are TOP-ROPING the start which is lame. The way it is now, if you don't stick-clip, you are looking at an out-of-control fall onto the rock to the left of the start if you blow the move after the little mini-ledge.

By djkyote
May 20, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

What is even lamer is colliding with our belayer because you clipped a bolt 6' off the ground or decked because you missed the clip at the v2 crux. If you don't want to 'toprope', bring a pad.