Red House 5.11b R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Andy Donson and Steve Levin |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Andy Donson on Jan 12, 2003 |
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Scott pulling into the corner on "Red House".
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Description The obvious hanging dihedral between Superstone and Friends in High Places. Great position and quality rock. Climb the easy lower section of Friends in High Places to the break and traverse left beneath roof to a ledge by a tree. Swing up and right into the right facing dihedral on the right. Climb this past an excellent undercling and good but small gear to reach a belay at another tree. To descend, climb down to the belay at the top of Friends..
Protection Blue and green Alien, small wires, RPs.
Joseph Crotty setting up for the crux moves.
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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2003
| A classic Hendrix tune (like its neighbor Purple Haze), the name reflects the cluelessness of the new owners of the residence west of the Visitor Center, who tastefully painted their house fire-engine red. |
By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Feb 9, 2003
| And here I was thinking that that color could only be described as "Electric Watermelon." |
By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Mar 18, 2009
rating: 5.11b
| Really good route, another fine short pitch in a great cragging area. We felt like we were on an FA on this one, due to the plentiful lichen and loose crumblies. It's a lot cleaner now, though, and deserves to see a lot more traffic.
We did not think that it deserves an "R" rating, though, the pro is actually quite solid. The only potentially sketchy spot would be at the start, pulling into the corner from the ledge. Both my partner and I are fairly tall, and we were able to stretch up and place a bomber tcu in a nice solid little slot in the dihedral. A shorter climber might need to pull the first move (~10ish) before getting that peice. It still wouldn't be bad, though, since there are a few other pieces lower, but they might be in slightly sketchy rock.
Either way, this is not a dangerous route and has some pretty fun climbing on it.
-Scott |
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