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Sunnyside
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Cheap Lipstick S 
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Fun in the Sun S 
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Red hot S 
Walk In The Park S 

Red hot 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Nelson Day on May 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Hard move off the deck to make the first clip, and another hard sequence to make the second clip. Very sequential and height dependent move to make the third clip. Sustained through the next two clips, and easier terrain to the anchor. The anchor on this route is a indoor gym type clip anchor designed for TR. Full sustained value at the grade!

Location 

Sunnyside crags just left of Dr Know. Start in the overhanging cave type area.

Protection 

5 bolts and clip type anchor


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By Ian McG
Dec 22, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

Good route. Clipping the 2nd bolt is HARD, don't blow it. Feels like it's missing a hold or two around bolts 2 and 3.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 21, 2013

Second that. If you blow it while pulling rope on the 2nd bolt, the ground is pretty hard. Very cool first moves.
By Brian Chastain
Feb 19, 2013

Didn't like this route. I was fine through the first two clips. I was too short (5'7") to hit the large hold at the 3rd bolt without basically dynoing. The side pull holds, IMO, would prove harder than 12a to make the sequence work. I called in the longer arms of my friend to finish this one. Booooooo