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Red Hot Chili Powder 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 1, 2013

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Description 

Aptly named, this route busts right from Block Party and climbs through the powdery, sandy red band of rock to better rock and the anchor.

Climb past the first two bolts of Block Party to a stance on top of the giant, detached flake. Get into the sandy, red rock and search around for the holds for two more bolts passing through the crux in the process. More sustained climbing on, thankfully, better rock takes you past two more bolts to the anchor.


Location 

It has a shared start with Block Party but goes right after the first two bolts.


Protection 

6 bolts (first two bolts are shared with Block Party) to a two-bolt anchor with rings.



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By slim
Administrator
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I don't think this is a MJM route, he generally bolts routes so that a leader breaking into the grade is unlikely to get hurt. This route is definitely not bolted that way.

I climbed this route a couple years ago, and I have to say it is definitely among the very worst routes at Shelf. The climbing is kind of lame, the rock quality is very poor, and the bolting is terrible.

The worst part is the first few bolts above the nasty flake. The rock quality is very poor and one or more of the bolts should have been lower, so that you can clip off of the best stance and the best quality rock. Instead, you are forced to clip off holds that will probably break at some point. The bolts are far enough apart here that you will hit the flake if this happens.

Yo be honest with you, if I put up a route and it turned out this bad, I would have immediately murdered it with a crowbar.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Sep 3, 2013

I believe this is a Bob D' route....

By slim
Administrator
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I don't think it is a Bob D. route, I don't think he would have bolted it like this. I suspect that the person who bolted this hasn't bolted many routes. It is really bad.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Sep 3, 2013

I'm pretty sure he put this in the spring he was working on his new book, but I guess I could be mistaken....

By slim
Administrator
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Man, I would be pretty shocked if it was a Bob D. route. Totally not his style of bolting.

The day I did it, several parties had tried it and all bailed off of one of their draws. At the end of the day, they asked if I could do it and set up a TR for them so they could get their draw back. I figured no problem, it's only 10b. I thought it was really sketchy. There was one clip in particular that if the hold broke, which seemed fairly probable, I would have been ordering a new wheelchair. I tried to climb past it to a better clipping hold, but it seemed like it only got worse.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 3, 2013

Thanks for the comments, fellas. I was a bit gripped on this, and that's unusual for me on Shelf 5.10s. I certainly do blame the rock quality for my over-gripping/cautious-gripping. My guess is the bolts are where they are because the rock is so dubious there aren't any other viable placements. I'm curious if the neighboring route, Block Party, felt as sketchy initially, too, but has cleaned up with many more years of traffic.
As for the bolt placements, if they're placed where the best rock is, perhaps fixed chain draws on the first two bolts above the flake to allow for clipping from lower would be good. Or just avoiding the route.

By slim
Administrator
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I did block party when it was first put up. The rock quality wasn't great on it either, but I think it was generally more solid than RHCP. I think it also has more bolts. It is definitely less sketchy. I have talked to several other folks who have climbed RHCP and their impression was similar to mine.