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Running Man Wall
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Red Heat 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Nick Nordblom, Mike Ward, Danny Meyers
Season: cooler (sun all day)
Page Views: 1,377
Submitted By: claramie on Mar 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Adam Therneau cruxin' on Red Heat. December '11.

Description 

scramble up to the top of the gully to the right of running man. start up the left-leaning, right facing dihedrals (the set on the right) until you reach the bolt line. zig zag your way up the face to the anchor in the bigger of the two huge huecos at the top of the wall. Double ropes would have been nice to reduce drag. This is an awesome adventure sport route!!! All the bolts are 10 - 20 feet apart. soft, sandy, slopey crimps on a steep slab. could be harder than 10d at this point.

Location 

right of running man up the gully on the west-facing wall. this route takes the left angling ledge system to a line of 8 bolts up to the two huge huecos at the top of the wall. the anchor is in the left hueco.

Protection 

single rack to .75 camalot (maybe two .75s). medium nuts. 8 bolts. 3 bolt anchor.


Photos of Red Heat Slideshow Add Photo
Red Heat. Adam Therneau, Dec '11.
Red Heat. Adam Therneau, Dec '11.

Comments on Red Heat Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

a .75 and a #2 camalot and a few medium stoppers should work out fine on the rack. bring a few long slings for a couple of the bolts up high to reduce drag.

a single 70m line will get you down, which is nice.

amazing route- definitely be confident at the grade on this one.

oh, and for those of a mind, the bolts on this one really should be replaced soon!
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 18, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

The belay "hole" at the top is one of the coolest hangouts around. This route is awesome.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Great route with a spicy finish. All bolts are spinners -- including the three at the belay anchor.
By Drew Peterson
Mar 10, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

So I just waltz up to the bottom of this route after doing Running Man, and I'm all like, "yeah, one more pitch". This thing felt bold, exposed and sustained. Not your run of the mill 10d. Screw your head on straight and crimp criptically. Without chalk to lead the way this route is 5.11 most certainly. A 70 will get you down from the top as mentioned, and a trim rack up to 1.5" will suffice, along with some narrow headed Master Cams in the finger size. Worth doing! Once.
By BrianWS
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

My first-ever route at RR... Truly a cool line. Sustained movement and cryptic beta, 5.10+ or 11- for sure.
By a.l.
Jun 9, 2014

Did a very early repeat of this route with Mike Ward (mid 90's maybe?)-it was loose and fun! Mike probably graded it 10-..back then he graded everything 10-. The heuco is a great stance!