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(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 
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Red Eye 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,250
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Rhys Schreck (age 9) cruising Red Eye.


Red Eye is an extremely fun and popular route. It climbs the head wall just above Classic Crack (it can be approached by Classic Crack, Thai Stick, or the walk up approach) and passes through cool huecos, using powerful moves to gain a ledge--the crux. The anchors are on an obvious ledge up left.

The route can be continued up higher (though it is seldom done) by moving right from the anchors and up a blocky section towards Kashmir's first bolt. From here, stay right and climb the obvious dihedral and crack to the top. It is roughly 60 feet to the second anchor station. The rock is solid, but dirty, and the climbing is solid 5.10.


Red Eye is on the Red Wall, just above Classic Crack.



Photos of Red Eye Slideshow Add Photo
A climber approaching the Red Eye.
A climber approaching the Red Eye.
Shows the routes namesake "Red Eye"
Shows the routes namesake "Red Eye"
1st bulge is second pitch over Classic Crack 5.9+ ...
1st bulge is second pitch over Classic Crack 5.9+ ...
Stacy on Kashmir
Stacy on Kashmir

Comments on Red Eye Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Jan 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is easily combined with classic crack if you don't place too much pro early on.
By ScoRo
From: Portland, OR
Feb 4, 2012

F.A. Monty Mayko I believe.
By another Chad
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm seeing a lot of 5.10b ratings given to Red Eye. I suspect the same people aren't climbing the second and third pitches! The third pitch in particular is quite hard even for the grade given in Portland Rock Climbs.

By Vince Schreck
Jul 19, 2013

Felt like really hard 5.10 to me, especially if you've just finished Classic Crack and are continuing on Red Eye. Cool route with a couple big moves.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

First pitch of Red Eye, (linked with Thai Stick, 5.10d) is a classic 5.10a. Definitely not harder than that though...
Amazing rock and moves!
By NickP
From: Golden, CO
Oct 7, 2014

I haven't climbed P3, but P2 leading up to Kashmir is NO JOKE. The strenuous, insecure, and not-so-obvious crux sequence makes you think twice about your 5.12 redpoint attempt (for me anyway). Definitely well protected though.
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