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Cactus Cliff
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Red Eclipse 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green, Travis Nolan, 2000
Page Views: 1,319
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Mar 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Kreighton Bieger on Red Eclipse.

Description 

Walking in to Cactus Cliff, after about five minutes, you will see Alexi's Climb, a short, bolted slab (five bolts) that looks very easy. This is a 5.5 that is the leftmost in a collection of moderate routes. Red Eclipse is the second route to the right of Alexi's Climb.

The route is a steep slab that starts on a small shelf and follows a line of bolts up a not-quite-vertical face, left of a crack. If you use the crack at the crux, I don't think it's 10c/d, more like 10b. Move between decent pockets on marginal feet and the crux is near the top.


Protection 

4 bolts.



Photos of Red Eclipse Slideshow Add Photo
Carl starting up Red Eclipse.
Carl starting up Red Eclipse.
Cactus Cliff - Right (1). <br /> <br />The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall. <br /> <br />La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).

The Price is Right is n...
Unknown climber on Red Eclipse. Beautiful afternoon light.
Unknown climber on Red Eclipse. Beautiful afternoo...
We approached this point from the white scar down and right, but a better line would be from the white scar on the left. Half way up the face above Chuck, you can use the crack on the right to make it about 10a.
We approached this point from the white scar down ...
Pushing through the crux to make that last clip.
Pushing through the crux to make that last clip.
Comments on Red Eclipse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 12, 2002

Of all the bolted boulder problems in this little alcove, this is the best. I found it quite enjoyable especially following the bolts absolutely straight up. Avoiding the crack definintly keeps the grade around 10d.

By Stewart M. Green
Dec 4, 2002

First ascent by Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green and Travis Nolan in February, 2000 after a "red" lunar eclipse. I had a compound dislocation fracture of my ankle and tibia and fibula on this route in February 2002. My left foot skated off a small edge as I was getting ready to clip the anchors and I fell awkwardly sideways and my right heel smacked on a 3-inch-wide shelf as I fell past and that was it...ouch!!! Thanks to all the guys who carried me out and got me to the Canon City hospital.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 4, 2002

Wow! How far above the bolt were you? How far did you fall?

By Larry Shaw
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Cool moves, went in the crack to the right at the top, not sure if that's on route.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2006

Fun climb, 5.10c! All the holds are there, but most of them happen to be two fingers or so. There is a good rest area in the middle of the climb that allows you to rest those fingers and grab more chalk for those hot and slippery days.

By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Sep 21, 2007

WATCH OUT!!!!! The last time I was on this route the chains at the top were wearing out due to contacting the bolt.

By Camille Kimball
From: Manitou Springs, CO
Feb 2, 2009

Short and tough face! Crux after the 3rd bolt.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 10, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Really fun, crimpy route, but that last bolt is hard to clip. Make sure you're solid on the thin holds.

By Bill Farrand
Oct 31, 2011

Note that in the Bob D'Antonio guidebook, this climb is listed as 5.9, and having just done it, it does seem to be a solid 5.10.

By jamesm
From: Canon City, Co
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The book says it's a 5.9, but yeah it feels more like a solid 10 face climb. It's rough, but the key holds are there.