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Sun Spot Crags
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Across To Bear T 
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Angus' Kong T 
Aurora No Boreals S 
Black Hole T 
Blinded by the Light S 
Blink S 
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 
Chromosphere T 
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Hebrew Hammer S 
Krymptonite S 
Lein On Me S 
Magnetopause S 
Myopic S 
North American Free Trad Agreement T 
Northern Tights S 
Ra's Arete S 
Red Dwarf T 
Rehearsal of Fortune T 
See the Light T 
Sol Survivor S 
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Sun Baked S 
Sun Demon S 
Sun Dialed S 
Sunny Side Up S 
Tallest Man On Earth T 
Turn The Other Cheek T 
Viking Soared T 
Wedge Of Delight, The S 
White Dwarf S 

Red Dwarf 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,BMorin,'06
Page Views: 818
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Jesse starting up 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 with Jimbo spot...

Description 

Short left angling crack 5.12 leads to a big ledge and total recovery. Move back right and clip one of two bolts (for top-roping crack) then head up steep face 5.11 to anchors. These double bolts can be reached by climbing around the left side of the formation to the previously mentioned ledge. You can hang draws on these to TR the crack. Take some small cams for directionals. You can also hike to top of crag tie off an oak work out to the front of the formation and single line rap to chains. You then have to have someone untie the rope so you can set up the TR. Or you can lead it.

Location 

From the Griddle hike for two minutes up and left along the wall. Where the trail splits at a cairn go left 50 feet and you will be below the Red Dwarf

Protection 

Gear to yellow camalot size. A couple of purple or green cams is helpful. A great wired stopper can be worked in from the ground with a stick to protect the first moves.


Photos of Red Dwarf Slideshow Add Photo
Jesse crushing 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad
Jesse crushing 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad
Jesse hiking 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad
Jesse hiking 'Red Dwarf' 5.12 trad
Fun with Red Dwarf
Fun with Red Dwarf

Comments on Red Dwarf Add Comment
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By Jimbo
Jan 26, 2010

First stopper can be placed on lead. (Stick it in your teeth already clipped to the lead line)
Gear spoiler: 1 yellow camalot, 2 green camalots, 1 red camalot, 1 purple camalot and a number 3 camalot at the top if your really scared.
You gotta figure out the order they go in by yourself.

This is a short, safe, fun and challenging trad line. (Not too many of these on the Lemmon)
By karatepete
From: tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2010

thanks jim, i was gonna ask about the gear.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route! Though, both Adam and I thought it was 11d/12aish. Sun spots is a nice hard trad crag, not many of those on Mt. Lemmon. Adds a lot to the mountain. Nice work EFR and others.
By Jimbo
Mar 1, 2010

Eric,
Have you done Aurora no Boreals on gear? It seems easier than Red Dwarf to me. Hence the 12a/b rating.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nope, haven't done Aurora on gear yet. But, Red Dwarf on gear went easier for me than Aurora on bolts.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Now I know why! My beta was all wrong on Aurora. I was using the 12c beta. Yes, Aurora is easier.