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Menses Prow
Routes Sorted
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A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing S 
Abscessed Words to Climb S 
After Dark S 
Armies Of Metaphors S 
B.O.S.S. Method, The S 
Back for More S 
Baroque Period, The S 
Bat Crack T,S 
Big Chill, The S 
Chiba Chiba S 
Cosmic Thing S 
Dealin' Crack T 
Dumb Waiter S 
Fever S 
First Blood S 
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Flashback To Acid Beach S 
Graceland S 
Jumbo Pumping Love S 
Krakatoa S 
Lamontís Period  S 
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump S 
Light Days S 
Liquid Affair S 
Lunch at the Y S 
Menses S 
Metaphysical Fictions S 
My What a Big Bulge S 
No Passion for Fashion S 
Original Route S 
Period Epic S 
Period Piece S 
Pig Dictionary S 
Prima Nocta  S 
Pueblo Gringos S 
Red Dog S 
Scratch and Claw S 
Shelf's Worst Route S 
Slender Fungus S 
Smart Server S 
Smokin' Crack T 
Stratabulge S 
Sudden Impact S 
Sundogs S 
Thirteen Engines S 
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith S 
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine S 
Weed n' Feed T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Dog 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: Sean O'Dell on May 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Julie Logan on the 5.9 Red Dog on the California P...

Description 

This excellent route is located on the west face of the California Ethics Pinacle (CEP on the pictures of the area). To get there, follow the sand gulch trail as described for Period Piece. CEP is the obvious detached tower of rock about 30 yards west of the eastern end of Menses Prow.

Everything about this route is 3 star, in my oppinion. Start on the lower right side of the west face on small, sharp pockets. Angle slightly left and negotiate a small overhang. The pro is all bomber, the climbing is aesthetic, and the views of the valley are outstanding. Probably the best route of its grade that I have done at Shelf. The only thing that could make it better is if it were longer.

Protection 

4 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Red Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Red Dog climbs the west face of the California Eth...
BETA PHOTO: Red Dog climbs the west face of the California Eth...
Cody finishing up a great trip with a go on Red Do...
Cody finishing up a great trip with a go on Red Do...
Jason H. at the top of Red Dog.
Jason H. at the top of Red Dog.
BETA PHOTO
Red Dog
Red Dog
Happened to get a shot of his first real whipper o...
Happened to get a shot of his first real whipper o...
Short but sweet.
Short but sweet.
Tim leading Red Dog.
Tim leading Red Dog.

Comments on Red Dog Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2002

uhhhh, 5.7? didn't inflation go out with the [Reagan Administration]??
By Sean O'Dell
Jul 27, 2002

Looks like we have the same problem on this route as we do on Bat Crack - different guide books (and different climbers, for that matter) give it entirely different ratings. The someit as 5.7, Knapp's book lists it at 5.9. Personally, I'll admit I thought it was soft for a 9, stout for a 7. I guess the moral of the story is that there is good deal of debate surrounding ratings in this area, so forget the numbers game, use the rating as a "ballpark," climb it yourself, and draw your own conclusions.
By CLR
Dec 31, 2002

Just typing to let you know that yesterday, I typed Red Dog and Tucker's Faith in criss-cross; Red Dog is on the North-West facing wall, and Tucker's Faith is on the North-East side of the South-East facing California Pinnacle arÍte. I spaced out the fact that I criss-crossed the names after Fred Napp printed the fact that, the North-West facing (of the California Pinnacle) looks like a beer bottle... This is just to you.... not on-line....Thank you for not printing anything about... The Flame... because of liability; The very first time I did it, I on-sight, solo, flashed the last pitch-with no Bata and no rope; The Traditional climber's who watched and who heard about it, all said that NO PERSON HAD EVER ON-SIGHT, SOLO, FLASHED THAT PITCH WITHOUT A ROPE, AND WITH NO BATTA BEFORE... 1991?Take it easy...CLR
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 5, 2008

An interesting move or two but nothing spectacular. It's easier to stay right on the arete and stretch left to clip.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The anchor bolts are cold shuts.

The left one is worn about 1/3 through and needs to be replaced.
By jamesm
From: Canon City, Co
Oct 30, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's a fun 9, that's for sure. Just run the face, maybe look right for some new stuff, but all in all a solid fun 9. One of my favs.