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Ruckman Cave
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Unsorted Routes:

Red Dawn 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Shannon Wade
Page Views: 2,129
Submitted By: Adam Holmes on Sep 27, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Red Dawn climbs the beautiful grey wall, just left...

Description 

Red Dawn is a dead vertical crimp fest on beautiful blue limestone reminiscent of the Wasteland routes. Crimp your way up 6 closely spaced bolts and pull up onto a sloping ledge. The bolts stop at this point for some reason but luckily the climbing eases to 5.9. Hike the short runout to the anchors.

Red Dawn is located about 25 right of Bloody Corner (10c) on the "other" Ruckman Cave wall that is 100 yards left of the cave proper.

Protection 

6 bolts + anchors.


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By Fred Knapp
Sep 22, 2004

Shannon Wade and I bolted and climbed this from the top down and we were unsure how our battery pack would hold out between this and LeFrimeur. We did run out of battery and thus the runout, but as you pointed out, the climbing isn't bad.

By scott B
Jul 17, 2006

Got on this climb last year. It is actually really good and climbs well after one cleans off the cobwebs. Never heard of a soul doing this, but well worth the bushwack if you are sick of the overhung stuff.
By Angus Bohanon
May 11, 2009

Good once you get the cobwebs off? Well worth the bushwhack? These are not good things. No offense to Fred, but I didn't like this route at all. The clips are desperate, the holds are scary, and the upper half is terrifyingly dirty. I'm not sure how it got 4 stars in the book, but I must object. Too short, too scary, too dirty, too many thorns on the approach.
By dbyte
From: Carbondale, CO
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This route is very good. The "runout" @ the top is only ~12 feet from the 6th bolt to the anchor & is 5.9 climbing. It is also preceded by a no-hands rest with the 6th bolt @ your feet. The approach is casual if you don't stay close to the cliff bottom (no bushwhacking required). We found it to be clean & with very good, technical movements - packs a good pump into its length.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 10, 2009

I wonder if Angus was on The Rolling Log, which is everything that he said (too short, too scary, too dirty).

Red Dawn is almost as good as the movie, but a little on the short side.
By Fred Bonnard
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2010

The anchor was replaced and a new bolt added in the top part above the ledge (part of the Rifle cleaning and rebolting week end 8/21 - 22). This route is absolutely stellar, great technical move and as dbyte mentioned builds a good pump.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2010

Got on this after the cleanup weekend. The bolts seemed to be solid and there are currently draws hanging as well. Great climb if you want to change things up from the rest of Rifle.