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Captain Hook 
Red Beard 
Salty Dog 
Spread Eagle AKA Gritty Kitty 

Red Beard 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Oct 25, 2003
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start just to the right of "salty dog". this route goes up a series of good side-pull flakes and slopers, over a huge ledge where you basically get a no-hands, clip the 3rd bolt, then several final moves up top before exiting to a 2 bolt anchor. stick clip the first bolt if you're nervous about the first move but it's not hard and there are good holds. though the route looks easy, it turned out quite fun and challenging.


4 QDs plus a 2 bolt anchor. slings or QD's will be necessary to lower off as there are no chains or rap rings. sorry but i forgot to bring chain. the anchor is far enough back that you may grab your slings or QDs from the top on the way out. you may easily set a TR from the top as well.

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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 5, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Gear Alert

The bolts used were NOT STAINLESS STEEL!! They've been there just under two years and they're already very rusty.

Oh, and the top anchors have been cut but you can still lower from Salty Dog's anchors.

By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 5, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

10a? I find that hard to believe. I'm pretty short and found a small section to be quite challenging. I don't know how anyone my height who climbs 5.10a could get up it.