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 ADVANCED
Red Arch Mountain
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Red Awaking 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A4

   
Type:  Aid, 8 pitches, Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A4 [details]
FA: Flyn Brian McCray & Kurt "Burt" Arend
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,912
Submitted By: Kurt Burt on Jul 11, 2010

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Brian pulling the roof

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Description 

New route climbed Dec of '03. Climbs right out of the middle of the arch. Climb is heads up, with many pitches of long fall potential. Only a few really "dangerous" pitches (whatever that means) but overall classic route. The headwall has a pitch of drilling, we were hoping the seam panned out to no avail. One of the steeper pitches in Zion for sure. Decent is best to try and find the top of Shunes Buttress and rap, we didn't and rapped off the back into a wicked slot canyon in a rain storm but that is for another story. Please feel free to manipulate any hole on the route. We were low on bolts and rivets so we did a lot of angle holes. But please leave your drill holstered while on lead, it is all there just try. Link to a story and topo of the route. climbingresoles.com/FlyBrian/?...

Location 

hike up under the arch and start up the obvious crack chimney thing.

Protection 

60m ropes
2 sets nuts
3 ea TCU/Alien
2 ea .5-4 camalot
1 ea 4.5-5 camalot (old now #6)
8 1/2 angles (2 sawed)
2 ea LA
2 ea KB
6 RURP
16 Beaks


Photos of Red Awaking Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at the anchor right over the roof
Looking down at the anchor right over the roof
Brian starting up the steepness
Brian starting up the steepness
Red Arch Mountain route goes right up the middle a...
Red Arch Mountain route goes right up the middle a...
Burt leading pitch 4
Burt leading pitch 4
Brian belaying pitch 6
Brian belaying pitch 6
Burt leading pitch 4
Burt leading pitch 4

Comments on Red Awaking Add Comment
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By bsmoot
Jul 11, 2010

Awesome route and photos...thanks for posting up. How was the rock quality above the roof?

Looks like the wildest wall in Zion!
By Kurt Burt
Jul 11, 2010

Rock is really good, there is a seam there that can be seen from the ground, but it is just a line, can't get a beak in it. The pitch after the drill pitch was really wild off the belay and then some wild free moves to the end. Very classic route.