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This is the most Westerly point of the cliff ban before the cliff bends around to the North to form another branch of the canyon behind the Fortress Cliff.
After the 1st water crossing drive up the hill toward Tweety Bird Rock. Drive slow and notice the camp ground on your right (Chinaberry Campground). Park in the pullout just after the second drive of the campground and walk to the dry creek bed with guardrails on ether side. Walk around the rail and hike in the dried creek bed North. The creek bed winds around a lot and forks twice(stay right), at one point you walk through a really cool cave(flashlights recommended). Continue North and walk under the small arch, then keep going until you walk up to a 15 foot tower of dirt in the middle of a gully. Make a left turn up the creek bed and walk 100' past the tower and look for a trail up the wall to the left. Fallow this trail under the cliff. When you are below the cliff you know you are at the right place when there is a gray cliff (left) that meets the red cliff(right).
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Ol' Red 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : ... : Red & White
A beautiful small hands crack that is left facing for the first half of the climb than right facing for the second half. In the middle there is a good rest on a jam undercling, than the crux comes at the direction change of the crack after the rest. Classic!...[more] Browse More Classics in TX
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