|Black Arches Wall
The technical crux is getting out of the niche, but many climbers feel more challenged by the tenuous friction of the opening slab.
P1: (V1)Climb the left side of the apron slab of the Isobuttress, past 2 bolts to a block with a casket-sized niche 4' above. Get up in the niche and then (V2) ascend via the crack on its left edge (V3) to a small ledge with an anchor in a perched spruce tree.
P2: Step left and climb a left-slanting crack to a ledge. Climb up the righthand crack on the face above this to a horizontal**, then make a tricky step right to gain a brushy vertical crack. Climb up this, then climb up and left along a good crack to the low-angle on an arÍte. Up this, move right for pro, then back left to reach a good ledge, with anchors on the left side of the face just below it.
P3: Climb the 10' high 5.6 face to the top (or rappel from the anchors).
The first pitch is very good; the second is mundane; a better finish traverses left to join Carpenter & Das for its upper pitch.
V1 5.10a: Start 10' left of the slab, using side pulls to dyno for a good jug, then rejoin the standard route.
V2 5.10d TR: Climb through overhang above the niche up the face right of the crack to a left-facing corner, then continue up to a horizontal rail and traverse left to the anchor.
V3 5.8: Climb the crack to the end of the flaring chimney part, then rail right to a left-facing corner before going up to a horizontal rail and traversing left to the anchor. This variation has become part of the route Outpatient.
- *There is an off-route bolt above this junction of cracks, a proposed "direct" finish pitch, which runs up the vertical crack and through the face above the bolt. I would like to see it continue up the outside corner right of Carpenter & Das' crack, but it would need another bolt. So far, this has defied all lead attempts. Have at it.
15' right of Carpenter & Das, near the left edge of a slab, below a line of two bolts.
Modern trad rack.
2-bolt anchor at top of 2nd Pitch.
Note there is an off-route bolt on Pitch 2.
Lukasz Czyz on the 5.10d variation.
Alex reaches the belay anchor for Recuperation Bou...
Gabe Linncourt nearing the top of P1.
Alex reaches for magic powder on the initial slab ...
Keith Meister sizing up the 5.10 variation start w...
|By worth russell|
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 13, 2010
Pitch one is pretty sweet
|By Jay Harrison|
May 11, 2011
The 1st pitch of this route has become the standard favorite start for climbing the Isobuttress. Most parties then traverse over to finish on the Carpenter & Das second pitch. This link-up is the best overall route on this section of crag, with lots of options for harder/easier climbing at several points along the way.