Rectum Roof 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | FTR: John Vawter & Mark Thorpe 1973 FL: Werner Landry 1975. |
| Submitted By: | Jeffery on Aug 26, 2007 |
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Rectum Roof. Photo by Brent Coe. Nice job Brent!
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start by climbing up to a thin ledge then up past two bolts to a horizontal crack under a small roof. Traverse five feet left, using the horizontal crack till you reach a vertical crack that enters the roof overhead; this is the crux. Pull the roof and jam your way to the top till you reach a bolted anchor. This route should protect well, but the leader should be comfortable with the grade. A toprope can be set up on this route to work out the moves.
Location This climb is located on the Main Wall Center; Upper Tier Routes. Continue up past the Gallwas Crack to another ledge and gain purchase on top of a large boulder; should be able to see the two bolts at this point.
Protection This is a mixed lead that requires small gear up to three inches and also protects with two bolts. There are also bolted anchors at the top for rappelling and toproping. Double length slings will do the trick for a TR.
Action Photo! Me getting my butt kicked on top rop...
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 26, 2008
| The bolted anchor is near, to climbers' left of a nice flat boulder that begs to be used as a seat. Walk up from The Blocks (way left). |
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 23, 2009
| A bolt was added at the start, so now there are 3 instead of the original 2. The original 1/4" first bolt was replaced probably around 1999 and moved ~6" left, making it much harder (more dangerous) to clip. In summer of 2009 somebody decided to add a bolt below the original first bolt.
I have led this route multiple times on the 2 bolts and can say that the perfect solution would be to move the first bolt back right to its original location and remove the new bolt below that. Although chopping the new first bolt is not out of the question, it would actually return the route to a state more dangerous than its original condition.
I'm just trying to keep a record of the history here, properly repairing this route will take some ambition. |
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 6, 2012
| gear: three draws, then C4's: #1+QD at traverse, .4, .5, 1, 2. Maybe there was a .75 in there too? |
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