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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1998.
Page Views: 1,991
Submitted By: Ramin Jamshidi on Jan 1, 2001
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Woop-Woo!! Another really fantastic Clear Creek route. The first eight bolts are smooth slab climbing, with some high 10 / low 11 moves. Then get ready for the real fun - step out of the comfy little corner, and make some balancey moves through two bolts to earn the nice view at the anchors. A highly recommended route.


10 bolts to a 2 bolt (red coldshuts) lowering anchor.

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By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Nov 11, 2001

This route feels about a grade easier than the rating. Maybe 11a if you're generous. Nevertheless, a fun, quality line.

By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Agree that it is definitely easier than the rating, but the psychological crux is definitely moving off those good holds right and firing to the top. 10d. Good route.

By Anonymous Coward
May 11, 2002

For Clear Creek ratings: 10d. In Eldo this would be a low 10, I'm convinced. Did this route day before yesterday, did King's X in Eldo (10d) today. Even considering the gear differences, the moves on Kings X are almost a full grade harder.

Regardless of rating, this is a fun route with graceful moves at the top. "Thumbs up!"

By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Aug 3, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I think this route helps define the Reefer Madness grade. As stated above, Recovery is a full number grade easier (i.e. 10c). There is a little trick move mid-height; otherwise, it is easy climbing to the corner. The corner itself is only several moves before reaching a bomber hold just before the anchor ledge. You are well protected here, so the scare factor is minimal. Good, fun climb.

With that being said, RM feels a letter grade or two harder than Recovery. RM moves are trickier and more continuous. I think RM comes in at 10d/11a no matter what your height. To reduce RM to mid-10 in turn reduces Recovery to 10a, which I don't think it is.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 13, 2003

Harder if you're tall, I get all cruched up after exiting the corner, where the good holds used to move though the crux are down low and awkward. 6'4" here and this feels .11b, while Reefer is like .10+.

By Luke Childers
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

No 11c!!!! But a really nice 5.10. It's worth the effort and the stone is quite good. I will revisit for sure.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Huh? Definitely 10c at most. Fun line, though.