|By Dow Williams |
From Saint George, UT
Oct 30, 2013
You can basically climb both aspects this time of year and be quite comfortable.
My complete list with asterixs marking my favorites.
Erring on the sunny side, here are a few routes that stand out for me in that grade range...
Smooth Operator, 5.9, 3 Pitches up to the sunny north Brownstone Wall...once there, tons of 5.8's and 9's including
Armatron, 5.9, 6 Pitches ; Sweet Thin, 5.9, 7 Pitches and Requiem for a Tad Pole, 5.9+, 5 Pitches
Bird Hunter Buttress, 5.9, 12 Pitches across the way on Rainbow Wall is a good alpine type 9 with plenty of sun this time of year.
The Solar Slab area has a ton of decent sunny 9's and 8's. A few favorites...you typically combine a lower route with an upper route.
Frieda’s Flake, 5.9, 3 Pitches and Beulah's Book, 5.9, 3 Pitches
Sundog, 5.10a, 8 Pitches ; Sunflower, 5.9, 8 Pitches and Arch Enemy, 5.9, 3 Pitches The best 5.9 line on this wall for me is to do Beulah's Book, then Arch Enemy (by far the most interesting climb) and then tie into Sunflower to the top, rap Solar Slab.
Further in Oak Creek
The Black Orpheus, 5.9 (maybe one move 5.10a and lot of 5th in the middle, few good pitches at each end)
Rainbow Buttress, 5.8+, 8 Pitches
Coltrane, 5.9, 5 Pitches
A decent 5.9 on on Windy Peak's south face
Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9, 7 Pitches
Good Luck with your trip!