Recommended All Mountain Ice Tools.

Hi MPers,

I am starting to look around for a pair of ice tools. I want a pair of tools to do moderate alpine mixed and ice routes.

Ive been recommended both the Petzl Nomics and the Cassin X-All Mountains. Personally I have primarily used BD Vipers which I like and seem very trusty but I would like to hear what y'all like and use when you're out in the hills.

Thanks!

All mountains if you really need versatility, Nomics if you plan on spending lots of time on technical ice. I think the Vipers are good too, but I'd just as soon have the X All-Mountains - I feel they have a technical edge on the Vipers.

All Mountains:
-Huge Clearance
-Light head-weight (which could be a pro or con) you control swing based on conditions
-Cheap replacement picks
-Versatile as all-get-out
-Nice to not be another Nomic wielding climber...just sayin'

Nomics are great too, way different swing, but depends on what you like. Try them both and decide for yourself.

Nomics! Good enough for Uli, good enough for me.
Seriously though no better tool made for what you want to do.

He's asking for an "all mountain tool" and you're suggesting that he get a more aggressive tool,than he already has? Doesn't make sense.

Your Vipers are already great all mountain tools. If you remove the fang and pinky rest the Vipers are much better for plunging into snow on an alpine route. I would just stick with those. However, if you want something more well rounded for the mountains, I recommend the Black Diamond Venom tools. They'e great for piolet canne position with excellent penetration in hard snow, and with a pair of wrist leashes, they do more than hold their own on more technical ice.

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Just picked up a pair of these Cassin X-Alp tools with hopes of using them for moderate alpine climbs. Haven't received them yet but they look like they'll do the job. Hopefully.

X-Alps were my first tools. Not a bad beginner tool. I'm thinking of adding X-Triggers to make them a little more versatile. They have a heavy swing to them so for really cold days on easier ice I wouldn't mind bringing them back out.

link for X-Triggers - camp-usa.com/products/cassi…

My 2nd, and favorite tools, are Nomics. I love these guys. They're just plain awesome. The hype is real.

Nomics are not all mtn tools. As said above, for all round tool just stick with Vipers. More than adequate if ya take the plastic bits off so you can plunge the tool. Being able to plunge the tool is important as alpine travel can be a real mixed bag.

It seems that today folks think they can not climb with out super aggressive tools. Baloney. Look at the dates the route was first climbed. The vast majority were done with straight shaft tools. They may not have been as efficient as todays tools but the same goes for today. I see climbers hunched over using two tools on moderate terrain that I cane up or use one tool and ski pole. Way more efficient.

The same for using one vs two tools. Far too often climbers resort to two tools when one will work perfectly fine. It just takes some practice. Practice it then when one gets to a steepish section you can cruise through it without screwing around or having to carry a second tool for two days for a 50 foot section of 45 degree ice.

Thanks for all the thoughts so far!

Small point of clarification: I don't actually own any Vipers I have just used them a bunch (They are available for me to borrow through work). I am trying to see if I should buy a pair of Vipers for myself or whether there is something better suited to my needs.

Also, I feel I was a bit ambiguous when I said "all mountain". I am looking for a tool that climbs vertical Ice and rock like a champ but is still suitable for moderate and easy terrain. I feel like the viper strikes a good balance in this area but then again its the only technical ice tool I have ever used :D

Camilo Gomez wrote:I am looking for a tool that climbs vertical Ice and rock like a champ but is still suitable for moderate and easy terrain. I feel like the viper strikes a good balance in this area but then again its the only technical ice tool I have ever used :D

I was in the same situation you are, buying some tools for my son.

Got him the Cassin All Mountain tools. He really loves them. Very good on steep ice, but will still work well on moderate stuff too. Unlike the Nomics, the All-Mountains are available with a proper adze and hammer, both of which can be quite useful in the mountains.

I have a pair of the Black Diamond Venoms mentioned above. They are good on moderate and easy terrain, but not so good on steep ice. Given your requirements, I really think that you want the Cassin All Mountains.

Take a look at the
Black Diamond
vipers,
cobras

petzl
quarks

Casine
X-mountain
X-Alp

Grivel
Quantium-tech

All of which are good all around tools. You can climb ice and some easy mixed routs with any of those. The handle profile is not so aggressive that you should be able to handle moderate routs as well.

If you are mountaineering more than vertical climbing you may want to look at a poilet style ax.

For me, I climb vertical more than anything so I use collapsible poles for the approach; and x-dream or nomics for the climb.

I have found the All Mountain to be the perfect balance for moderate and technical ice. They are just long enough to cane with for me, and have a really good spike on the bottom for just that. Also, the light head seems to keep my arms fresh on longer routes. Good luck OP

camilio, there's a brand new pair of x all mountains listed on the Denver craigslist for 300 bucks. they've been on there for a week or so but I guess they're still available.

haleymay wrote:My Trango Raptors have been a great all around tool for alpine stuff.

That handle's not exactly made for plunging in snow. And in my experience the pick angle is way too steep for daggering on moderate slopes. YMMV (obviously).

X Alps are great, put the X-Dry handle on them and you're good to go...My primary tool for guiding here in NH...Use them on everything from Shoestring gully to Dracula

Petzl Aztarex if you can find a pair. Think they stopped making them...

KeithS wrote:X Alps are great, put the X-Dry handle on them and you're good to go...My primary tool for guiding here in NH...Use them on everything from Shoestring gully to Dracula

Glad to hear this. I've the same setup but haven't gotten out with them yet. Did you pick up the x-ice leashes with them?

If you decide on BD Vipers I have a like-new pair for $300. PM if interested.

I have a pair of new generation BD Cobras that I am trying to unload for $400 shipped. They are a great all mountain does everything well tool.
Dallen

Try a bunch of tools out (gear shop or on ice) and see what you actually like. While you'll get a lot of naysayers (bonus don't climb snow/ straight shafted tools don't climb hard ice), being comfortable with your tools is paramount. My one recommendation is to buy the most aggressive tool (within reason) that you think will work for your needs. Seems like a good way to build in some safety margin.

PatCleary wrote:Try a bunch of tools out (gear shop or on ice) and see what you actually like. While you'll get a lot of naysayers (bonus don't climb snow/ straight shafted tools don't climb hard ice), being comfortable with your tools is paramount. My one recommendation is to buy the most aggressive tool (within reason) that you think will work for your needs. Seems like a good way to build in some safety margin.

+1

All Mountains, Cobras and Vipers are all good choices but try them all and see what works best for you. Don't think one tool is better just cause.

MarktheCPA wrote: Glad to hear this. I've the same setup but haven't gotten out with them yet. Did you pick up the x-ice leashes with them?

Mark,
No leashes. Probably the only thing I'll change out at some point (other than the handle) is a pair of the picks that come standard on the All Mountains...The X-Alp picks are great but filed off the first tooth to better suit ice climbing